Treating the longs, advice needed Options

[amfab]

Hi, I have a question about treating the inside of the longs. I have some rust issues in the back of the long—jack point areas. I am cutting out and replacing the weak areas.

The area to the front of the jack point has some surface rust, but the metal is solid so I do not want to cut further forward. I am also going to put Brad Mayeurs kit over it all, so I am not worried about strength, I do however want to convert/seal the inside of the long going forward, before I install the kit to prevent further degredation.

What is the best/easiest way to do this? I was looking at the Eastwood green aerosol frame stuff, the converter/sealer that has the hose, or maybe Ospho, but I am trying to not damage the heater hoses in there and still get decent coverage. I don't know how to get the aerosol hose up into the long

Any suggestions? Can the heater hoses be pulled out and replaced without cutting the inner rocker completely out? What are they made of anyway?

Thanks for any suggestions

-Andrew

[jmitro]

I used the Eastwood internal frame coating kit also. Three cans.

Even if the longs are closed, you can still insert the nozzle up the drain holes at the bottom of the pinch weld, and you will get good coverage. The coating is very thin so it penetrates very well.

[amfab]

Mike, I plan to pull the two inner long rubber plugs to access the interior and sneak an inspection camera in there to 'see' any obstacles, but from looking at other folk's open longs (repair work), I have a pretty good idea of what's in there.

Mark, where are these plugs?

That spray won't hurt those tubes

Awesome, thanks, I hope that goes for the Ospho too,

I try to cover as much of inside of the long with OSPHO. Once it dries, I use the Eastwood internal frame coating.

OK I will do both,

I have the same dilemma.

What about the rusty pieces and scale that are sitting inside the long?

Will the spray cover that and "seal" over the loose debris?
My guess is no.

I had a small rust hole in the passenger side front fender well, right at the end (beginning?) of the long.
I opened it up to about a silver dollar size hole, at that point I need to weld in a small patch anyway.
What I found was a fair amount of rusty scale. I was able to vacuum a lot of it out and the rest I used a magnet on a stick, then I used air to blow out any residual dust/dirt.

I was then able to use the Eastwood green spray. It worked well for me but I had that opening to work with.

So now I know the driver side long is also full of debris that I want to remove so I can coat the inside of that long but I don't have any thru rust on that side to break open another hole.

I hate to make a hole in a solid section, but……...

Hardly any loose stuff where the metal is solid. I also have a small hole at the front of the long I will be repairing also. So I will use that as access as you mentioned

I used the Eastwood internal frame coating kit also. Three cans.

Even if the longs are closed, you can still insert the nozzle up the drain holes at the bottom of the pinch weld, and you will get good coverage. The coating is very thin so it penetrates very well.

Good to know, I just ordered a gallon of Ospho that I will squirt in with a cheap pesticide sprayer, then I will do the Eastwood stuff—I bought 4 cans. Then I will prime and paint the inside of Brad Mayuer kit, then scrape the paint and primer off where it is to be welded and prime with weldable primer.

It is now a California car so that should be good for a couple decades

Thanks everyone for the advice AND the pictures.

[BeatNavy]

Mark, where are these plugs?

You can see the opening of one in the upper right corner of the picture I posted. There are two per side. From the factory it was covered with a black, sticky/rubber cover, but they have often fallen off or fallen apart. Remove the seats and carpet and you'll find them along the inside of the inner long. You'll get a good view of heater tube through them, and you can probably snake something into the long from there. As you can also see from that picture, you're primarily concerned with the lower half of the longs, as that's where most of the damage can be.

[amfab]

Well, as I hack into this looking for clean metal to which to weld, I am no longer experiencing the dilemma I was a few days ago.

I crossed the threshold of about 30% of the inner rocker needing replacement, so I decided to cut the whole damn thing off and buy a new one. No more worries about how to spray in there.

You can see the opening of one in the upper right corner of the picture I posted. There are two per side. From the factory it was covered with a black, sticky/rubber cover, but they have often fallen off or fallen apart. Remove the seats and carpet and you'll find them along the inside of the inner long. You'll get a good view of heater tube through them, and you can probably snake something into the long from there. As you can also see from that picture, you're primarily concerned with the lower half of the longs, as that's where most of the damage can be.

I am going out to pull the rocker cover off the driver's side now

I have my fingers crossed that I will be able to use your advice, and that how to get good coverage when coating inside will be my greatest challenge on that side.

BTW, I just got an Air Supply system and I am loving it!

[iankarr]

BTW, I just got an Air Supply system and I am loving it!

Well... those guys did blow.

[amfab]

OMG the driver's side is worse. I could jack up from that side so I was hoping for better. I knew I was in trouble when after cutting through the inner rocker and removing the heater tube I could see two quarters. I pulled the interior out and I am pulling the tar off the floors.

So regarding my initial post... never mind.

Restoration design is gonna love me