914-6 Valve Adjustment Advice Options

[kupcar]

Hi Guys, It's time to do some routine off season maintenance on the 914. The car has a 2.2s spec motor. My question is, how do -6 owners adjust the ignition timing prior to a valve adjustment? It looks damn near impossible to get a timing light reading. I know cutting into the firewall is an option for ease of access but I'm not willing to get the cutoff wheel out yet. Does everyone drop the motor and tune at a shop that has a running motor stand? I'd just like to double check the ignition before setting the valves. Thanks in advance.

['73-914kid]

I exclusively use the back side method as described on Pelican. Much much easier on a 914, where you can physically look down on the cam lobe. It also eliminates the need for a "feel" when using the standard 0.006" feeler gauge that always seems to get bent and folded.

1. Jack up one side of the car, using jack stands... put the car in a forward gear, with the parking brake off. I recommend chalking the wheel on the ground. I also pull out the spark plugs. When I do valves, I usually swap out spark plugs as the MSD box and hot coil are kinda tough on spark plugs, and they're cheap and easy.

2. Remove both the exhaust and intake cam covers.

3. Start the back side method described on Pelican. You rotate the tire FORWARD while looking down from the top and watch the exhaust cam lobe rotate so the top of the lobe is facing 180 degrees from the rocker arm. ( no lift) go underneath and adjust the valve using go, no-go feeler gauges.

4. Go underneath the car and watch the intake cam lobe rotate 180 degrees away from the rocker arm. Measure and adjust.

Wash-rinse-repeat for all valves on one side. then go over and do the same for the other side. I can usually pull off a valve adjustment in about 90 minutes start to finish using this method.

Oh, and you can replace the upper row of studs on the exhaust cam cover with socket head cap screws.. this allows an unmodified 930 cam cover to be R&R'd with the engine in the car.....

[mskala]

... Oh, and you can replace the upper row of studs on the exhaust cam cover with socket head cap screws.. this allows an unmodified 930 cam cover to be R&R'd with the engine in the car.....

If you do this you won't have the nyloc helping to avoid fasteners loosening. I don't
think there is a lockwasher that would work at the low torque used to seat but not
crush the gasket.

['73-914kid]

... Oh, and you can replace the upper row of studs on the exhaust cam cover with socket head cap screws.. this allows an unmodified 930 cam cover to be R&R'd with the engine in the car.....

If you do this you won't have the nyloc helping to avoid fasteners loosening. I don't
think there is a lockwasher that would work at the low torque used to seat but not
crush the gasket.

I stack up a wave washer and aluminum washer underneath the bolt head, with the aluminum washer on the valve cover. I've never had one leak or loosen up. You have to tighten some of them by hand with an Allen key that is trimmed down once the engine is in the car.

Just use good judgement when tightening down then down.

[6freak]

[quote
Just use good judgement when tightening down then down.
[/quote]
just use the proper torgue specs ...and you really dont need to shave any off the V/C if you put the left side of the motor in first ( kinda tilted) but it is tight

#1 reason for leaky V/C is over tight 8 lbs PSI if i remember correct and use flat washers and nylock nuts.. valve adjustment is not hard just time consuming and let it drip for a few days before ya start or youll have oil drip n down your arms and in your face....good luck

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