Adjusting Fuel Pressure for Better Running Engine, 1.7 Engine Performance Options

[R Shaff]

I've read some helpful things here while helping with my brother's '72 914. I think I've learned something new and thought I'd share it with you guys.

This car has the original engine and FI system, though the ignition system has been updated and is electronic. The car wasn't running well, and the local shop my brother uses said he should do a carb conversion, costing over $4,000. We looked online and found some good write-ups that recommended keeping the FI system. I've worked on many cars and restored one, so I thought I'd try to get the car running well enough with the original system.

The compression and ignition checked out fine. We adjusted the valves (of course). We tested and then replaced 3 injectors, and the CHT sensor. I put the fuel pressure at 28 psi, per spec. Static tests of the manifold pressure sensor came out fine. A cigar smoke test showed no intake leaks. We cleaned and adjusted the TPS, and then finally changed the TPS contact plate and adjusted the arm (when the car just wouldn't run right). All the other components checked out fine, using tests I found online.

The result? The engine fired right up, with a good idle. But when driving it lacked power, and the higher the rpm the less it wanted to pull. (Not right for a Porsche.) It felt like the timing wasn't advancing, or that the engine just wasn't getting enough air or gas in the right balance.

Other than buying a replacement MPS or computer, I was running out of ideas to try. One of good things about carbs is that they are adjustable. One of the challenging things about these old open-loop FI systems is that they are not really designed to be adjusted much, or at all. Repair is usually a process of testing and replacing components. But this car sure felt like it needed some kind of adjustment.

One of the odd things about this car, in my experience, is that the fuel pressure regulator IS adjustable. So that's what we tried, just using seat-of-the-pants performance as the indicator. We dialed the pressure down a turn and things got worse. Then we turned the pressure up, one turn at a time, and voila! As we did the car ran better and better. Now it pulls in the upper ranges like it should, much like it used to.

Now we're going to buy a 4th injector of the same type and adjust the pressure again as needed. (Now that we know we can adjust the whole system.) Perhaps that will make it run better still.

I haven't read that anywhere(about adjusting fuel pressure to get the engine to run better) so I thought it might help someone else who is struggling with these old Bosch systems.

Happy motoring!

Richard

[r_towle]

The weights stick when the old grease gets hot, then say after you wind it up at a stop sign and the centrifugal force overcomes the sticky grease the weight get stuck at full or partial advance and when you shift up, the timing is now terrible for the lower rpm and the car bucks, sometimes quite a bit.

It will keep you chasing your tail for a long time, cost hundred of dollars in parts. Or you could do it and spend 0.05 on grease. I just use normal bearing grease. And I have found it on every car I have touched....quite a few.

The CHT
In 73 the factory used a resistor inline on the 2.0 liter models to enrich that specific year. I used a volume knob because I could drive and tune....takes maybe 30 minutes to simulate all conditions...load, no load, accel, coast on highway . I planned a route to radio shack, measured the switch when I got there and replace it with the resistor....same route home to verify results. Good for years (that car, that elevation...)

I too changed fuel pressure (it was the distributor weights (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) and that screws up idle and makes a hard start sometimes. 28 is the right number old or new motor, leaky or not. The mps and CHT control the duration of the injector opening....those are the keys.
If the mps holds a vacuum properly I would look elsewhere, but not fuel pressure.

Lastly, I removed my cold start injector from the loop, wiring and fuel..... those drip quite a bit and can make tuning hard.