how much bar is to much bar? |
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how much bar is to much bar? |
ottox914 |
Oct 26 2004, 04:37 PM
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#1
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The glory that once was. Group: Members Posts: 1,302 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Mahtomedi, MN Member No.: 1,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I 'll first describe how the '14 is set up, then what I'm thinking and why, then you guys take it from there: Front: 21mm front T bars, 19mm weltmeister sway bar, set about 1/4 in from full soft, koni oil (911) sport adjustables in shortened housings, usually run at 1/2 turn in from full soft. Allignment as much neg as I can get, which is about 1 1/2 per side, 1/8 total toe out, caster at high end of factory specs. Back: Koni gas sports, (914), run full soft, 175# springs, threaded adjusters, no rear sway bar, no toe and no neg camber. Koni competition bump stops all the way around. Stock 15 x 5.5 rims w/Azenis, going to kuhmo or hoosier for next season, on either factory rims or 6.0 panasports. Rack spacers up front. Lowered to about 2-2.5" of travel for front struts before hitting the bump stops, back end lowered to corner balance to 49/51 diagonals. Open diff. 2.0 motor, soon to be kitcarlson'd, kerry hunter header w/supertrapp, "custom" (home-made) cold air kit, basically a K & N mounted on some pvc on top of the throttle body that sits right under the engine lid mesh w/the rain tray out.
I like the way it handles, in specific, the throttle lift oversteer at higher speeds to rotate around a cone. The car will be DSP for next season. Don't like the body roll. I think from seeing photos there is too much. Plan of attack? I have always thought getting spring rates right was the first step, then sort the F/R balance with the sway bars, and fine tune at the track with shocks and air pressures, in that order. Here's what I'm thinking- go to the 23mm front sway bar, adjustable drop links to make sure there is no pre-load, add the (?) 18mm rear adjustable bar. Increase both bars a similar amount to try to retain the front/rear balance, and hopefully lose some body roll in the deal. Maybe go back to the 150# springs sitting in the garage. Use is auto x, no lapping or road course stuff. (yet) So, how about it? Anyone been there/done that? Most of the folks I've talked to locally stay away from a rear bar. I like the F/R balance the car currently has, and know how to fine tune it w/shocks/tire pressures for the conditions of the day. When I have tried to tighten up on the front bar, it just seems to become a pushing machine, and with the shocks set other than noted, it rides like a dump truck. Just gotta get rid of some roll, or just get used to it. waddya all think? |
Joseph Mills |
Oct 27 2004, 12:05 AM
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#2
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on a Sonoma diet now... Group: Members Posts: 1,482 Joined: 29-December 02 From: Oklahoma City, OK Member No.: 39 |
QUOTE(ottox914 @ Oct 26 2004, 09:29 PM) Jospeh222- what did you find odd about the set up? I do have a factory rear bar kicking around the parts bin I call a garage- how about that w/the 150's or 175's on the back, and just tighten up on the 19mm front, rather than spend $$$ on the 23? Reasonable or not? What setups are each of you using ? Odd? Aw, no big deal. These are just suggestions. But here is what you have: Extreme neg camber F with no camber R. Extreme toe-out F with no toe-in R. I just think you can obtain more grip overall by changing that setup. Did you read my post? I suggested you NOT go to a 23mm - here's what I said a few posts back: "I would increase the stiffness to your present front bar (to eliminate lean), add some negative camber to the rear (better contact patch for traction), and go to stiffer springs (200-230#), in the rear to keep the car from pushing (and will also help eliminate lean)" Remember, in your first post you are the one who said: "Here's what I'm thinking- go to the 23mm front sway bar..." Everytime these suspension threads start, they get confusing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) As Chris suggested, try out your R bar - and IF you like it, then install some heavier springs and remove the bar. Your car will stay flat AND have less spin. Here is where I have arrived at thru good advice from this forum, plus some trial and error - good thing there is a market for almost new R springs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Caster: equalized at 7 Camber F: 1.4 Camber R: 2.0 Toe F: 1/16"out Toe R: 1/16"in Ride height: w/Victoracers is 4.25" at doughnut 911 Torsion bar: 19mm Welmeister bar: 22mm full soft Turbo tie rods Springs R: 250# Koni adjustables F: full soft R: half hard Weltmiester chassis stiffening kit + 7 & 8" fuchs with 205 & 215 kumhos With this setup, and my driving style, my car rotates nicely at low to moderate speeds. Sudden input into the steering, and the rearend just folows around like a puppy dog. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) But at high speeds, throttle lift will kick the rear out. Which can be eliminated by tightening up the F bar. Sounds like you plan on doing some experimenting. Let us know what happens. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
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