how much bar is to much bar? |
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how much bar is to much bar? |
ottox914 |
Oct 26 2004, 04:37 PM
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#1
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The glory that once was. Group: Members Posts: 1,302 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Mahtomedi, MN Member No.: 1,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I 'll first describe how the '14 is set up, then what I'm thinking and why, then you guys take it from there: Front: 21mm front T bars, 19mm weltmeister sway bar, set about 1/4 in from full soft, koni oil (911) sport adjustables in shortened housings, usually run at 1/2 turn in from full soft. Allignment as much neg as I can get, which is about 1 1/2 per side, 1/8 total toe out, caster at high end of factory specs. Back: Koni gas sports, (914), run full soft, 175# springs, threaded adjusters, no rear sway bar, no toe and no neg camber. Koni competition bump stops all the way around. Stock 15 x 5.5 rims w/Azenis, going to kuhmo or hoosier for next season, on either factory rims or 6.0 panasports. Rack spacers up front. Lowered to about 2-2.5" of travel for front struts before hitting the bump stops, back end lowered to corner balance to 49/51 diagonals. Open diff. 2.0 motor, soon to be kitcarlson'd, kerry hunter header w/supertrapp, "custom" (home-made) cold air kit, basically a K & N mounted on some pvc on top of the throttle body that sits right under the engine lid mesh w/the rain tray out.
I like the way it handles, in specific, the throttle lift oversteer at higher speeds to rotate around a cone. The car will be DSP for next season. Don't like the body roll. I think from seeing photos there is too much. Plan of attack? I have always thought getting spring rates right was the first step, then sort the F/R balance with the sway bars, and fine tune at the track with shocks and air pressures, in that order. Here's what I'm thinking- go to the 23mm front sway bar, adjustable drop links to make sure there is no pre-load, add the (?) 18mm rear adjustable bar. Increase both bars a similar amount to try to retain the front/rear balance, and hopefully lose some body roll in the deal. Maybe go back to the 150# springs sitting in the garage. Use is auto x, no lapping or road course stuff. (yet) So, how about it? Anyone been there/done that? Most of the folks I've talked to locally stay away from a rear bar. I like the F/R balance the car currently has, and know how to fine tune it w/shocks/tire pressures for the conditions of the day. When I have tried to tighten up on the front bar, it just seems to become a pushing machine, and with the shocks set other than noted, it rides like a dump truck. Just gotta get rid of some roll, or just get used to it. waddya all think? |
ChrisFoley |
Oct 27 2004, 05:24 AM
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#2
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,934 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(bob91403 @ Oct 27 2004, 05:40 AM) rather than have it go soft on you as you come out of the turn and possibly cause oversteer. Bob, That's not quite the scenario JP was describin'. When the car goes into a turn and the springs compress more the oversteer will increase as the compression hits the stiffer coils. Coming out of the turns and the springs soften will not increase oversteer. On the street it is unlikely you will encounter the conditions that are induced intentionally in a parking lot solo race. Progressive springs are a compromise. They absorb the small bumps easily and make the car feel comfortable, but when you hit a big bump they help keep the suspension from bottoming. On an autocross course you aren't concerned about bumps. What you want is a suspension that reacts consistently all the way through the range of compression during hard cornering. Working with whatever limitations your suspension has is always the challenge. Learning to be smooth and adjusting your driving style to your particular setup are the keys to being fast on course. Most people who blame their setup for not being fast actually haven't reached the real limits of what they have yet. |
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