Ignition switch questions - Update: It's ALIVE!, Cranks, but won't start. Options

[ThinAir]

My 73 has developed an issue. It will crank, but will not start. When the key is turned to the start position, all the lights on the gauges go out and the needles go to the bottom. It is my understanding from the "Dr. 914" tip book that this indicates a bad ignition switch.

I've checked the switch with an ohm meter just to try and educate myself on what is happening. I see that in the on or start positions I have continuity from pin 30 to pins X and 50, but no other pins. I know that I have power in the harness to pin 30 so that means that when I try to start it these same pins are getting power. I'm wondering if this is the way the switch is supposed to function, or what pins should I expect to get power.

Assuming that the switch is functioning as it should, is there anything else (like a relay) that could cause this behavior?

[ThinAir]

I don't have spark, but I figured that this was probably because of the problem with the ignition switch. I've also tried to start with no key cylinder involved - just used a screw driver with the naked ignition switch.

In trying to figure out why I don't have spark, I was wondering what connections the ignition switch should be making to pass power.

The fuel pump runs so I believe that I have fuel, but I can't make out a separate sound that indicates that the injectors are "firing".

My car was away since last November so I don't remember anymore what is "normal". Should the dash lights and gauges behave like that when I turn to the start position?