Ignition switch questions - Update: It's ALIVE!, Cranks, but won't start. Options

[ThinAir]

My 73 has developed an issue. It will crank, but will not start. When the key is turned to the start position, all the lights on the gauges go out and the needles go to the bottom. It is my understanding from the "Dr. 914" tip book that this indicates a bad ignition switch.

I've checked the switch with an ohm meter just to try and educate myself on what is happening. I see that in the on or start positions I have continuity from pin 30 to pins X and 50, but no other pins. I know that I have power in the harness to pin 30 so that means that when I try to start it these same pins are getting power. I'm wondering if this is the way the switch is supposed to function, or what pins should I expect to get power.

Assuming that the switch is functioning as it should, is there anything else (like a relay) that could cause this behavior?

[ThinAir]

This is Pertronix.

I checked the Pertronix with this procedure from http://itstillruns.com/do-test-pertronix-i...on-7993715.html

"Unplug the red Ignitor module wire. Connect the red Ignitor module lead to the battery positive terminal using a jumper wire if required. Attach the black lead of the multimeter to the Ignitor module black wire. Attach the red lead of the multimeter to the battery positive terminal.
Rotate the center magnetic sleeve of the distributor shaft by hand or by cranking the engine. The multimeter should show a fluctuation between battery voltage and zero volts. A constant voltage reading indicates a failed module or improperly installed Hall Effect shutter wheel."

My test showed no activity on my volt meter. (In hindsight, I connected the VM to the black lead after removing the black lead from the coil. It's unclear if I should have left it connected to the coil.)

I've replaced the Pertronix with an Ignitor II which was new in the box, but no change in the behavior.