73 2.0 running *really* rich Options

[rpc]

History: We bought this '73 2.0 last summer. It ran ok at the time, though on cold start-up it would choke if we gave it throttle before it had a chance to warm up for a few minutes. We dropped the drivetrain in the fall to do a bunch of general cleanup on the engine and trans, including:

• replaced all fuel lines in the engine compartment
• replaced all the hoses
• cleaned electrical connectors including all engine compartment relay panel
• replaced plugs, points, rotor, and maybe dist. cap and plug wires (will need to look back at notes)
• adjusted valves
• I don't think I adjusted static timing, so that's a pretty big miss - need to do that

Today: We finally got everything back together and started the car but it was running really rich, so much so that we could barely keep it running. After we shut it off it wouldn't start again. It would spin fine, but not even a hint of firing. Things we've done:

• pulled one plug and it was wet. Cranked engine with the plug on the fan housing and got a good spark.
• verified plug wires were in the correct firing order
• disconnected the thermo switch to prevent the CSV from firing - still no start
• waited a few hours but still no start.

So first, I think it's so badly flooded that we need to wait a day and/or pull the plugs so that the cylinders dry out.

Second, I'm guessing that replacing the hoses fixed a bunch of air leaks, which some PO had compensated for by richening the mixture. I could very well be wrong, just a guess.

I've read a good amount and have a basic understanding of the D-jet system, but I'm looking for pointers about where I should start in fixing this. If I'm right about the flooding we should be able to get it started. Then what do we need to start checking to address the rich running?

[rpc]

Good point about brittle wires. It seems the FI harness is particularly prone to that on this car. I'll check the wire from the CHT sensor to the ECU. I assume I need to unplug the ECU for that. Any tricks to unplugging? The connector is pretty big and I'm concerned it's fragile.

Will check the fuel pressure and pressure regulator connections. I seem to recall reading that the fixture on the fuel rail is the easiest spot to check that.

Rob, appreciate the offer of the loaner parts. I'll let you know if or when we get to that point.

Thanks all

[BeatNavy]

Good point about brittle wires. It seems the FI harness is particularly prone to that on this car. I'll check the wire from the CHT sensor to the ECU. I assume I need to unplug the ECU for that. Any tricks to unplugging? The connector is pretty big and I'm concerned it's fragile.

Getting the ECU connector off can be a small challenge. The connector and harness is a tight fit, and you need to slide that cover off after removing the screws. Once you slide the cover off, there's a plastic piece that acts as a handle that can be used to carefully remove the connector from the ECU board. Once you do it a couple of times it makes sense.

Before you do that, though, it's probably easier to remove the fuel line at the fuel rail (to test the CSV) and then check fuel pressure.