Brake bleeding help Options

[steuspeed]

Installed a new Ate 17mm Master and rebuilt the right rear caliper. It was sticking on. I have gone around several times bleeding each corner with the pedal method. It still does not feel 100% solid. Any suggestions out there? Maybe air trapped by the top bleeders? I'm using Ate super blue which I found is no longer available (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) I did not bench bleed the master.

[IronHillRestorations]

Here you go Stu
Here's how I bleed a 914 brake system, from my post back in Mar 05.

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Get a spare cap for the brake fluid reservoir.
Get a tire valve & stem.
Drill a hole in the center of the reservoir cap, the same size as the hole in a wheel (or measure the narrow part of the tire valve).
Pull the valve stem through the hole.
Remove the plastic screen in the reservoir.
Fill the brake reservoir completely, not to the fill line, all the way full to the bottom of the tube that holds the plastic screen.
Put on your new modified pressure bleeder cap.
Drain your air tank to 10 psi, for cheaper compressors setting the regulator at 10 psi may not work. If you put too much pressure in the system, you'll blow off the blue lines that connect the supply lines to the reservoir, or worse. EDIT-20 psi works best
Take a clip on air chuck and clip it on your new pressure bleeder cap.
Bleed the brakes, starting at the furthest bleeder from the master cyl, and finish at the bleeder nearest the master cyl.
Bleeding sequence (RR-LR-RF-LF) EDITED FROM ORIGINAL POST
Pump the pedal hard about ten times and repeat the procedure.
Do not get brake fluid on painted surfaces it will ruin them.
If the pressure bleeder cap retains pressure, bleed it down (at the tire valve) before taking it off the reservoir.
This works very well, and makes it a one person job.
Replace brake fluid every two years.
Properly discard used brake fluid.