Engine Stalls Under Acceleration, '72 1.7L FI / Anyone in the area to help? Options

[1adam12]

Okay, I think I'm done on this one and throwing in the towel. I've been going through the vacuum lines for over three months. I know that seems long but finding an accurate 1.7L FI California carb diagram has been like trying to find the Holy Grail. I had help from Jeff B. and put the best two diagrams together in an effort to clean things up in my engine bay.

I purchased my '72 1.7L back in April and when I first started it there was rough idle as expected but it revved. Once I started replacing the old vacuum lines I must have reversed some lines because that's when the problem started.

The car starts right up and has good idle around 2500 then drops just above 1K so I believe the cold start and AAR are working fine. When I manually open up the throttle, the engine bogs, and the rpm's drop. It's as if there engine is starving for air and doing the exact opposite when throttle is opened.

I went ahead and purchased and installed 914rubbers 1.7L TPS board and there was absolutely no change. I also rerouted some of my vacuum lines again to where I believe they are spot on.

Could the problem be my MPS or possibly Decel Valve? Anyone near the Chino Hills area this weekend? My goal is to get her off jack stands this weekend! I would love to try someone else's MPS or Decel to help me in my process of elimination. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[1adam12]

The first thing I had time to check just recently was the fuel lines. Like Mgphoto suggested, there was a bad kink on the larger hose under the fuel tank. I had to cut the length back about 2 inches so there wasn't too much slack on the line when placing the fuel tank back down. Unfortunately, this didn't change the loss of power but it's good that I fixed that. Next up: MPS vaccuum, Fuel pump, Distributor trigger points, then valve adjustment.

[iankarr]

The first thing I had time to check just recently was the fuel lines. Like Mgphoto suggested, there was a bad kink on the larger hose under the fuel tank. I had to cut the length back about 2 inches so there wasn't too much slack on the line when placing the fuel tank back down. Unfortunately, this didn't change the loss of power but it's good that I fixed that. Next up: MPS vaccuum, Fuel pump, Distributor trigger points, then valve adjustment.

If you found a bad kink, I'm pretty sure that's still your problem...since, with a bad kink, the engine wouldn't have had enough fuel to rev and allow something else to be the cause in the first place. the ideal length of hose is 22" using the coil method. See link below. Also, the fabric-covered hoses are much less prone to kinking. Before I'd move on to anything else, I'd remove the skid plate and look through the inspection hole to verify the hoses are clear. After that, check pump pressure, MPS vacuum, fuel injectors and on down the line. I'm sure you'll be back on the road soon!

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