Quickie 2.0 Rebuild Options

[McMark]

One of my winter tasks is to build a stock 2.0 with my MicroSquirt fuel injection that I can install in my car and get it dyno tuned. That's been the missing piece of my MicroSquirt setup for the last few years.

Since there isn't much demand for a stock 2.0, I just plan on doing the minimum to build a solid motor. I plan on having the valves reground, cylinder surfaces machined and reringing the pistons. Regrinding the cam and rebuilding the rods and all new bearings as well. This should give me a motor that will last through the testing, and be worth something when I'm done to pass on to a new owner at a nice price.

This thread does not represent my standard procedures for rebuilding engines. This is a special case and special circumstances.

For those of you on a budget, but looking to refresh their motor should appreciate this writeup.

Starting off with a core engine. The previous owner mentioned this engine had a 'knock', so I'll be on the lookout for what might have caused that. This is a 'GC' code engine with air injection ports in the heads.

[McMark]

Working on assembling the crank finally. This isn't going to be a step by step build thread. Mostly just pointing out the thing that I look for that aren't listed in most other build threads. This is the nitpicky stuff.

I installed the rods on the crank, and everything went fine with that. But before I heat and install the gears onto the crank I like to make sure and set myself up for success. The keys that locate the gears are often nicked, dented or deformed. I find it very worthwhile to remove the keys from the crank and test fit them in their respective slots. Any keys that have deformations get smoothed on all sides with some fine, adhesive-backed sandpaper (designed for body shops, but works great for many things). As with most things I've talked about in this thread so far, this is a nuanced operation. You're trying to removed to protruding material without affecting the original size of the key. You should also be checking the key in the keyway as you go. Once the key slides smoothly through the keyway, you're done.

This is super helpful when you're trying to quickly slide a HOT crank gear into place and this makes sure it doesn't get stuck. I still keep a brass drift and hammer at the ready when I'm installing gears, but I haven't ever needed them once I started test fitting and cleaning these parts. Now that I started doing this, the gears just slide easily into place.

These are the parts that go on the crank.

The big key needs to slide through this slot easily.

The small key needs to slide in the fan hub slot.

Some examples of damage.


Smoothing keys with adhesive backed sandpaper on a smooth surface. Not trying to remove any more material than just enough for things to slide.

Using a small file with edge serrations to clean and smooth the corners of the keyway. Not all files have the edge teeth/serrations. Again, not trying to remove any more material than just enough for things to slide.