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bbrock |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
My Webers have the cold start circuits installed. While I'm replacing the floor pan and have easy access to the tunnel, I am thinking about adding a couple tubes to run cables from a hand throttle lever to the carbs to operate the chokes. Wondering if anyone has done this and whether it would provide superior cold starting to the traditional hand throttle. I live in the frigid north where it can freeze any day of the year, so I want the best cold start operation I can get. Thoughts?
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bbrock |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
No not really needed a handthrottle is a better solution,getting the cables setup correct would be a hard task,last thing you need is one to stay open a bit and fuel wash your motor. I remember an old article on the Porsche 356/ 912 about why they had no chokes on the these cars the reply from Porsche was something like ''parts you don't need'' . On my six its 3-4 pumps on the accelerator hand throttle full on and it starts right up,not long before you pull the hand throttle back to idle,if your carbs are dialed in you will have the same result with a 4. Good luck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) This seems to be the consensus and helps answer the first questions of whether it is needed. What would be a typical "cold start" air temp for you? I won't be driving the car much during winter so starting in our -35F/-37C temps isn't much of a concern, but there will be plenty of days starting the car as low as 0F/-17C. Part of my challenge is figuring out if no-choke starting experiences of others translate to Montana weather. My 914 as purchased with its single centre mounted carb was very hard to start. That carb had a choke arrangement that was disconnected. To connect it I simply ran a cable from engine, through centre of firewall low down about where the other cables , fuel line etc go through, horzontally out the small access hatch between the seats near the firewall, along the right hand slider of the driver's seat and made a small bracket to mount the cable pull lever on to the front R H seat, down close to the floor. Worked perfectly, no horrible cable kinks, unobtrusive, easy to manipulate, no dashboard modifications, etc I know you obviously have different carbs, but if you do decide to connect a cable you might find the above the easiest way to do it. Regards DaveO Oz Mine did have the CSC hooked up on both carbs. I will most likely not use it as I am trying to clean up the engine bay. The PO was into bicycles and used a hand lever hooked to a central mount point. There was a bracket mounted at the rear of the engine on the top. The cable inside would pull both levers open all via bicycle brake/gear cables. It was a pretty neat setup. PM if interested in having my old setup. The lever was mounted just behind the E-brake, but could be mounted anywhere really. Whoa! Two guys who have chokes/CSC hooked up! I've done a lot of searching on this subject and you guys are the first. Nice to hear it can actually work. Bicycle cable (or frunk cable) is exactly what I have in mind. Difference is that I'd run the cable to a 914rubber repop lever mounted in front of the gear shift for a factory appearance. I think it would be simple and reliable. Actually, I think it would be easier than retrofitting a hand throttle since it wouldn't require a mod of the peddle cluster. The bigger questions is whether it is necessary. |
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