My DIY raised spindles. How to Options

[jmitro]

Here is my process for raising spindles on standard 914 boge strut bodies. As documented elsewhere this modification allows you to lower the car but maintain correct camber curve and suspension travel. Raising by 19 mm allows use of 15”, 16”, or 17” wheels. I have converted to 5 lug using 911 front strut bodies, so my learning curve was to first modify these 914 struts. First photo is comparison of stock unmodified left side 914 strut body versus modified right side (my first one).

[ChrisFoley]

That method doesn't work on 914 Boge struts. The tube increases in diameter right above the knuckle.

[jmitro]

That method doesn't work on 914 Boge struts. The tube increases in diameter right above the knuckle.

exactly; I tried grinding out the welds and using my press to force the spindle body upwards but it didn't work.

One thing to consider with any of these weld mods, is making sure the tubes are kept as straight as possible. Use a fixture if possible. I have seen some warped ones in the past.

hence the reason for the 1.75" OD tube inserted the length of the strut body. I made a jig but determined it was unnecessary if I inserted this tube.
As a follow up, I completed my 911 strut bodies the same way. with my MIG welder and 0.030" wire I still could not penetrate the full thickness of the strut body on the upper welds; so I sleeved again

[gothspeed]

hence the reason for the 1.75" OD tube inserted the length of the strut body. I made a jig but determined it was unnecessary if I inserted this tube.
As a follow up, I completed my 911 strut bodies the same way. with my MIG welder and 0.030" wire I still could not penetrate the full thickness of the strut body on the upper welds; so I sleeved again

I must have missed the tube insert for alignment pics ... that certainly would help keep alignment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I prefer raising the spindle like this method or by detaching and re-welding the spindle to the tube. These two methods retain full strut travel whereas bending the steering arm only corrects for bump steer. Nice job jmitro (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[ChrisFoley]

... bending the steering arm only corrects for bump steer.
...

That's right. I only do it after raising the spindles - an equal amount to the spindle height change.
There is a minor downside to recurving the steering arm. The forging loses some strength in the heat affected zone.
I prefer to add a lower support and use a long bolt with spacers to set the tie rod height. This requires use of spherical rod ends rather than tie rod ends though.

[mepstein]

... bending the steering arm only corrects for bump steer.
...

That's right. I only do it after raising the spindles - an equal amount to the spindle height change.
There is a minor downside to recurving the steering arm. The forging loses some strength in the heat affected zone.
I prefer to add a lower support and use a long bolt with spacers to set the tie rod height. This requires use of spherical rod ends rather than tie rod ends though.

And looses a bit of reach.