Need advice - how much of this long can be saved., UPDATE |
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Need advice - how much of this long can be saved., UPDATE |
mbseto |
Jun 4 2018, 09:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
Hey all. Would like to get some advice from the 914 surgeons. I've started on the driver's side long, hoping that the damage here would be a little less than the passenger side. Cut out all the PO's previous repairs and got my first good look up into the inner long, behind the suspension consoles and engine mount. It's not as nice as I'd hoped. These pics may not be the best to go on, but need to make some decisions about how much to cut out and how much can be saved.
So here it is - we are on the driver's side, forward looking aft. The section under the door sill has been completely removed and we're looking up the resulting hole. OK, so the optimist in me has already been taken out behind the shed and beaten with a tire iron. Then we handed him a bottle of whiskey and left him there. From what I see now, the engine mount is going to come off. We'll decide whether to keep it or get a new one based on what it looks like on the back. At the same time, I think we'll decide how far up the long to cut after seeing the portion under the mount. I believe the inner console is solid. You can see a mouse nest in the outer console - that's giving me some heartburn. I'll be trying to vac out all the bits in there and then borescope it. I'll be elated if the consoles don't need to come off. Let me know what you think. Don't pull any punches. |
marksteinhilber |
Jun 5 2018, 12:16 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 229 Joined: 18-October 12 From: Foothill Ranch, CA 92610 Member No.: 15,057 Region Association: Southern California |
I'd suggest:
1. Support the front and rear trunk or bumper sections even though you have the door braces. Your removing most or all of the longitudinal and I can see the angle of sag showing on the bottom edge of the rear quarter. I used adjustable hydraulic jacks and kept the doors in place so I could check gaps using the door frequently. 2. I suggest that you fix the inside or outside half of the long, then remove the floor and fix the inside of the long from inside the cabin and the engine compartment. Then tie in the inner and outer firewall lower repairs. Your repair sections will need to be bigger and you will most likely need to remove the engine mount and maybe the inner suspension console. You might be able to arrest the rust with ospho and then get creative with some flat bar inside the long at the console. Then plug welded the console all the way through into the heavy flat bar. This will restore the strength in the bottom of the box and may be stronger than original. A couple pounds of flat bar here isn't gonna hurt! I have no fear of jumping up and down on my door sill now and I'm 230! Oh yeah, I also added a third layer (overlay) on the inner long and also inside the cabin, engine compartment, and wheel well, both sides of car for track use. Quarters stayed on, but door sill and latch panel were partly removed for access. 3. Small flat bar can be used inside the corrugations on the inside panel for aligning the repair. I used an internal flat bar as an internal weld backing plate for closing the bottom of the long. It is also used to tie the suspension consoles, engine mount, and the longer straight section of the longitudinal. This helps carry the load, and reduce stress on the bottom skin of the box longitudinal. Sorry for rotated pics, but I'm used to welding upside down. [attachmentid=653 620] Attached image(s) |
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