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SeanDeanC |
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 17-April 18 From: Broken Arrow, OK Member No.: 22,047 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
TL;DR: I inherited a honey-do that is a 914 and looking to get it running. Currently seems to crank slow and has sat for a while with little/no fuel. Update: The #1 cylinder appears to have dropped a valve. Teardown commences.
My name is Sean and my Fiancée inherited a 1971 Porsche 914 from her father. It has sat for many years with little (maybe no) use. Therefore, I’m looking to get it rehabilitated and ready for some pictures this spring and our wedding this summer. So, I may reach out with some questions here and there. I’ve utilized this forum and many others for a crash course which have proved to be invaluable. Even if some of the posts now exclude originally attached pictures or were before image storage was readily viable. The car appears to have been obtained through a Haggerty auction/dealer. The car came with a good amount of spare parts (including what appears to be the full FI system maybe sans wiring harness). To an untrained eye It looks to be in excellent condition, with the exception that it only ‘ran’ prior to being dropped off. I have yet to get it to run myself and am currently going through rehabilitating the fuel system but it also seems to crank slow. I didn’t realize that not only was I fighting old fuel but no fuel. I should have taken pictures prior to some disassembly so you could see the car but maybe y’all and I can revel in some completion photos together. What I know about the car: • • Targa • Fuchs Wheels • Weber IDF 40s • *some exhaust system* • Clifford security system (super afraid of the wiring on this) • More to be discovered? Work in Progress: • Removal and cleaning of fuel system o Clean tank o Replace fuel strainer o Replace lines (including tunnel line which happened to be copper replacements on both) o Replace fuel pump and filter o Addition of fuel pressure gauge inline gauge This may be temporary if the FPR is accurate and consistent o Rebuild/refresh carburetors (new task to me; pointers welcome) o Run new wires for oil pressure and temp gauges At this point I’m open to any and all comments/suggestions. Especially advice of things to do while certain areas are opened up. I grew up on Nissans and have a ~380HP Nissan 240SX (Silvia) as a fun car. So, I’m excited to see this car come to life as one of the first Porsches and air-cooled cars I’ve maintained. https://photos.app.goo.gl/n8L1BejZ0xrDZmdQ2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/s5irKrca1vDfuSV37 What is the spade connector for in the middle of this picture resting on the block? Appears to be off of the ignition harness and is not shielded from shorting/grounding. |
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SeanDeanC |
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 17-April 18 From: Broken Arrow, OK Member No.: 22,047 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Cabinetmaker, thanks for the welcome. Maybe soon I'll be hitting you up or joining you at a meet.
Alright, so it is a 96 x 66 which makes it a 1911. What upgrade path makes sense? I'm thinking either 96 x 71 (2055) or 96 x 78 (2258) as they require no (or little) machine work. What are the pros/cons of going 2055 or 2257 other than the latter will make more power? Is 2257 too big for 40 IDF Webers? Any intake/exhaust valve sizing should I be looking at with the displacement increase? |
ChrisFoley |
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I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,937 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Is 2257 too big for 40 IDF Webers? Any intake/exhaust valve sizing should I be looking at with the displacement increase? You could use the 40s on a 2056 by installing bigger primary venturis. 2256 would need 44IDFs. You could get away with the stock size valves on a 2056, but 2L valves would be better. New 2L heads with even bigger valves would make the most sense for a 2256. Depending on the camshaft, a short stroke 1911 can make nice power with good headwork. |
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