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Mikey914 |
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The rubber man ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,767 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
First off I want to explain some of the photos. Pictures from my website have been showing up on other websites (9xauto), and I don't mind sharing info just not having what I've done show up on other commercial websites. I'm putting together an instructions for those that need it that by from my website, so it will be available on the site too.
Tool list - #2 Phillips screwdriver 10mm socket 13mm socket 6" extender for ratchet ratchet wrench 3/8? 13mm box wrench #4 standard screwdriver Wooden block and hammer Optional items to look at "while you are there" The Outer door fuzzy is difficult to access, you will be able to swap these out during this process. I do make the aluminum strips for early and late doors as well as the rollers for both Door handle isolators - If you need to swap out the seals on the door handles, this process will allow you to have more access. The door cam can be changed out at the same time. Locks can be rekeyed if needed and the door lock bushings replaced. Window rollers, both the early and late have rollers that are replaceable. The late doors have fuzzy strips that run vertical in the front and rear window guides, this is a good time to replace these too. The early door has rollers in the front track, the rear track has a plastic guide that runs up and down in the back track. The door stay is easily reached with the door panel removed. You can replace the rollers, springs, and the strap easily. The unit has a pin that holds it to the body, and 2 -10mm bolts hold the unit in. The fuzzy on the inside of the window can be replaced easily with the door panel off. Lastly the door end caps can be replaced at this time also. First off remove the door pockets, and plastic door handle cups. This will allow the door panel to be removed. Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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Mikey914 |
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#2
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The rubber man ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,767 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
You can cut a relief in the back of the seal or remove the metal bracket. Mine are a replica of the ones currently available OEM.
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BeatNavy |
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Certified Professional Scapegoat ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,951 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
You can cut a relief in the back of the seal or remove the metal bracket. Mine are a replica of the ones currently available OEM. Thanks, Mark. Spent several frustrating hours today working on this. I initially tried to cut a relief and push the tab through the slit I made, but that didn't work particularly well. I managed to get the passenger side on, but I'm not happy with how it turned out. On the driver's side I just removed the metal brackets and installed that way. It was easier to install and turned out better, I think. Time will tell if removing those tabs will cause any issues in terms of window stability. I think I'll go back and re-do the passenger side and just use adhesive to seal up the slit I cut in the seal. Anyone with an early car should probably just remove those tabs before installing the triangle seals. These seals are very well made, and I recommend them (like all 914Rubber solutions). But just know that you'll probably have to remove the two tabs when installing these. FWIW, here's a picture of the early seal with the tab that inserts into the seal. The bottom picture is the front seal relief. If you want these old seals for reference, Mark, I'll gladly send them to you, but I'm not sure you want more tooling costs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ![]() ![]() |
Mikey914 |
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#4
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The rubber man ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,767 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
You can cut a relief in the back of the seal or remove the metal bracket. Mine are a replica of the ones currently available OEM. Thanks, Mark. Spent several frustrating hours today working on this. I initially tried to cut a relief and push the tab through the slit I made, but that didn't work particularly well. I managed to get the passenger side on, but I'm not happy with how it turned out. On the driver's side I just removed the metal brackets and installed that way. It was easier to install and turned out better, I think. Time will tell if removing those tabs will cause any issues in terms of window stability. I think I'll go back and re-do the passenger side and just use adhesive to seal up the slit I cut in the seal. Anyone with an early car should probably just remove those tabs before installing the triangle seals. These seals are very well made, and I recommend them (like all 914Rubber solutions). But just know that you'll probably have to remove the two tabs when installing these. FWIW, here's a picture of the early seal with the tab that inserts into the seal. The bottom picture is the front seal relief. If you want these old seals for reference, Mark, I'll gladly send them to you, but I'm not sure you want more tooling costs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ![]() ![]() I do realize that the rubber that hold the window in can be quite frustrating to install. Matt is finishing up the video for the install on these and he speaks specifically about this area and how and why you should modify this area. Sorry we have not got that together yet but it will be very clear as you can see how it promotes rust. I think this may be why they eliminated it in the later years. Mark |
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