I have no spark, No Spark Options

[Jimz73]

Okay, I am totally stumped and dumb-founded. My car hasn't run for at least 2 years. I replaced the three port fuel pump with a new 2 port pump. The car is a '73 1.7 with stock fuel injection. I replaced fuel lines in tunnel with stainless steel lines at the same time. Tried to start, just cranked and cranked. It is getting gas to the injectors, but I could not get spark. I replaced the coil with a new one. Pulled lead from distributor and placed near the engine tin. Cranked the engine over, no spark. Car ran fine when I garaged it due to leaking fuel pump. I need help to figure it out. I even tried starting fluid and no go. Hasn't even made an attempt to fire.

[marksteinhilber]

You must confirm that you have 12v to the coil when ignition is on. If you have 12v to the coil, then you would check your points and condenser. The points should be opening and closing as engine cranks. An inductive timing light or spark tester can be used on the main coil to distributor lead. If there is no spark here, the problem is between the coil and the distributor and likely the points and condenser. If you sense spark getting to the center of the distributor cap, but no spark sensed in the plug wires, then you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wire connections at cap. Also make sure distributor is seated down, and rotor turns with engine. Make sure rotor lines up with TDC #1. As you check these parts realize that even the rotor and cap may have failed fail and won’t pass the spark. When I have no spark on an old car that hasn’t run in years, it can be as simple as rubbing the contact points with emery paper.

[Jimz73]

You must confirm that you have 12v to the coil when ignition is on. If you have 12v to the coil, then you would check your points and condenser. The points should be opening and closing as engine cranks. An inductive timing light or spark tester can be used on the main coil to distributor lead. If there is no spark here, the problem is between the coil and the distributor and likely the points and condenser. If you sense spark getting to the center of the distributor cap, but no spark sensed in the plug wires, then you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wire connections at cap. Also make sure distributor is seated down, and rotor turns with engine. Make sure rotor lines up with TDC #1. As you check these parts realize that even the rotor and cap may have failed fail and won’t pass the spark. When I have no spark on an old car that hasn’t run in years, it can be as simple as rubbing the contact points with emery paper.

I just confirmed that I do not have 12V to the coil. I connected red lead to the + side of coil and black to engine tin, and with the key in the on position. No voltage registered at all.

[taylspin46]

You must confirm that you have 12v to the coil when ignition is on. If you have 12v to the coil, then you would check your points and condenser. The points should be opening and closing as engine cranks. An inductive timing light or spark tester can be used on the main coil to distributor lead. If there is no spark here, the problem is between the coil and the distributor and likely the points and condenser. If you sense spark getting to the center of the distributor cap, but no spark sensed in the plug wires, then you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wire connections at cap. Also make sure distributor is seated down, and rotor turns with engine. Make sure rotor lines up with TDC #1. As you check these parts realize that even the rotor and cap may have failed fail and won’t pass the spark. When I have no spark on an old car that hasn’t run in years, it can be as simple as rubbing the contact points with emery paper.

I just confirmed that I do not have 12V to the coil. I connected red lead to the + side of coil and black to engine tin, and with the key in the on position. No voltage registered at all.