Dellortos advice needed, Unable to adjust #2 cyl Options

[Localboy808]

This is my first set of Dellortos. Never even played with a set of Webers. I cant seem to adjust cylinder #2. Mixture screw can be turned in all the way and engine runs the same. If I pull the spark plug wire on #2 engine runs the same. If I pull any of the others engine runs worse. I changed the distributor and wires and did not help. Also checked my compression on all cylinders and they were even 115 - 120. These are new pistons and rings and havent run this enough to seat them yet. I'm guessing its fuel related. Is this a common problem with these carbs? My plan was pulling the jets out and blowing them out when I get home. Any carb experts willing to give some advice?

Thanks, Scott

[Localboy808]

Also wanted to add. If I put my sync tool on cylinder 2 side of the carb, there is alot less vacuum or suction than on the Cylinder 1 side. Almost none at idle compared to the number 1 side. Not saying there isn't any. If I put my hand over it I can kill the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just saying the reading is much less on the tool.

[ChrisFoley]

Also wanted to add. If I put my sync tool on cylinder 2 side of the carb, there is alot less vacuum or suction than on the Cylinder 1 side. Almost none at idle compared to the number 1 side. Not saying there isn't any. If I put my hand over it I can kill the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just saying the reading is much less on the tool.

You need to balance the two throats on one carb by opening the idle air bleed screw of the throat with less flow until they match. The air bleed is the recessed (hidden) screw on the base iirc.

[era vulgaris]

Also wanted to add. If I put my sync tool on cylinder 2 side of the carb, there is alot less vacuum or suction than on the Cylinder 1 side. Almost none at idle compared to the number 1 side. Not saying there isn't any. If I put my hand over it I can kill the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just saying the reading is much less on the tool.

You need to balance the two throats on one carb by opening the idle air bleed screw of the throat with less flow until they match. The air bleed is the recessed (hidden) screw on the base iirc.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 100%

I used to have DRLA40's on my old 2270. The two throats of each carb need to be balanced individually, and then the two carbs need to be balanced. Then connect the linkage and make sure the balance is still true.
If the two throats of the same carb aren't balanced, you'll get the behavior you're describing on that carb.

The air bleed screws are tiny little screws near the base of the carb, two per carb, hidden in a recess that you probably won't be able to see into. You'll need a tiny little flathead to adjust them.

Be glad you got DRLA's and not Webers! Dells are fantastic carbs once you get them adjusted. I used to go 6 months or more without tuning them, and then when I'd go to check them they'd still be in sync. Very much set and forget.

[Localboy808]

Also wanted to add. If I put my sync tool on cylinder 2 side of the carb, there is alot less vacuum or suction than on the Cylinder 1 side. Almost none at idle compared to the number 1 side. Not saying there isn't any. If I put my hand over it I can kill the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just saying the reading is much less on the tool.

You need to balance the two throats on one carb by opening the idle air bleed screw of the throat with less flow until they match. The air bleed is the recessed (hidden) screw on the base iirc.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 100%

I used to have DRLA40's on my old 2270. The two throats of each carb need to be balanced individually, and then the two carbs need to be balanced. Then connect the linkage and make sure the balance is still true.
If the two throats of the same carb aren't balanced, you'll get the behavior you're describing on that carb.

The air bleed screws are tiny little screws near the base of the carb, two per carb, hidden in a recess that you probably won't be able to see into. You'll need a tiny little flathead to adjust them.

Be glad you got DRLA's and not Webers! Dells are fantastic carbs once you get them adjusted. I used to go 6 months or more without tuning them, and then when I'd go to check them they'd still be in sync. Very much set and forget.

I tried turning the little air bleed screws before replacing the spark plug but I couldn't seem to get them to turn. Very tight! If I have the same problem when I get my new sync tool I'll give them another shot. Maybe I need to hit them with some PB blaster? Didn't remove them during the rebuild.

[cgnj]

[/quote]
I tried turning the little air bleed screws before replacing the spark plug but I couldn't seem to get them to turn. Very tight! If I have the same problem when I get my new sync tool I'll give them another shot. Maybe I need to hit them with some PB blaster? Didn't remove them during the rebuild.
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That's not good. I have a 45 drla body that is has a single air bypass screw cranked so tight I can't loosen it. If any one has an answer for this, I can have a backup set.


Carlos