Double relay connector, square peg in round hole Options

[troth]

Trying to track down a hard starting problem. I'm convinced it's spark related. I've been trying to track this down for over a year now. It starts every time, but sometimes it takes a few seconds or even a few minutes of cranking to get it going.

I have a feeling it's related to my dual relay not having a good connection with the plug. I found an old thread where @malcolm2 had a similar issue with his relay. Here's his picture:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-13139-1370716659.jpg)

The plug doesn't really go up all the way into the relay. I tried shaving down the edges of the plug, but now it doesn't want to stay up. I'm afraid it's going to vibrate out, create a big short, and catch my engine on fire.

Is there a solution that doesn't involve duct tape? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Should I try to track down a metal relay instead of the plastic one I have? I saw an NOS one a few months ago for $30, should have jumped on it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Is there a source for the proper plug/connector?

[timothy_nd28]

The dual relay does not supply power to the ignition coil. Your ignition switch feeds voltage to the ignition coil. The ignition switch also feeds (momentarily) power to the dual relay that drives the fuel pump.

The dual relay is supplying power to the fuel pump, ECU and the back half of each injector. When you turn the ignition switch to the crank position, the dual relay should "click" and the fuel pump should stay on as long as you have the key in the crank position. When you release the key from the spring loaded crank position to the run position, hopefully the engine is already running, and the flap inside the airflow meter continues supplying power to the dual relay to keep it energized and fuel flowing.

You state that you see a delayed flashing on your timing light when trying to start. You also state that you observed no fuel pump action while cranking. These are two different signals that originate from the ignition switch and is screaming to be the problem, atleast to me. It could also be a issue with the relay board, even though the Ljet doesn't quite use any fuses or relays on this board, it still receives and passes voltages from the ignition switch.

When diagnosing a problem, I like to isolate suspected issues. With a few jumper wires, we can easily isolate and hone in toward the issue. I would start with putting a jumper wire from the (+) terminal of the ignition coil to the positive side of your car battery. Immediately start the car, and observe if you are now getting spark. If your spark is rectified, great, the issue could be with the relay board, wiring or the ignition switch.

To test for these 3 potential power robbing issues, remove the jumper, and take a voltmeter that is set for DC and probe one lead on the (+) side of the ignition coil while the other meter lead is on pin 30 of the ignition switch. The ignition switch should be set to the run position. You should ideally read 0 volts. Anything higher than 0.5 volts, I would remove the meter lead from the (+) side of the ignition coil and put in on pin 7 of the 12 pin connector (relay board). Again you should read 0 volts DC. If you are reading a higher voltage, move the meter lead to pin 8 of the 14 pin connector. Hopefully you read 0 VDC there. If you read a random voltage on pin 7 of the 12 pin connector but read 0 volts on pin 8 of the 14 pin connector, that tells us that your relay board is stealing power and causing the voltage drop. If both connectors are showing a voltage higher than 0, further isolation is needed but most likely the ignition switch is dropping the ball.

When you install a jumper wire and did not observe spark, then your issue could be with points, rotor, bad ground, etc. Do not leave the jumper installed. This could burn up your points or coil.

Toward the fuel side. At the dual relay, temporarily add a jumper from pin 88d to the positive battery post. Your fuel pump should immediately turn on. If your car starts right away with this jumper on, we would need to investigate pin 50 of the ignition switch.