'75 2.0L d-jet woes Starts off at 900 rpm for 2 min and dies, Is there a sequence to analyze problem? Options

[buck toenges]

Have a 75 D-jet 2.0L in earlier 72 car. Have later model main chassis wiring harness and 75 engine (fI wiring harness with the over rev limit switch. The switch is not hooked up). Car starts right away and idles at 900 rpm. I can rev the engine easily. After 1-2 minutes the engine dies. after that I can start engine it will rev to about 1000 rpm then die. This repeats as I start engine. I have to wait overnight to get the engine to start at 900 rpm and stay that way for 1-2 minutes. I have looked up d-jet stuff like Brad Anders' site and other posts to figure out what to do next.
Is there a sequence that would make the checkout easier?

This is what I have found so far as to sequence:

1)Fuel pressure at FI rail I have done this and it reads about 28-29 lbs during starting, running, and restarting.
2) check points condition and dwell 45-50 degrees Haven't done this yet but points and dist cap look new.
3) check cht ohm readings before starting and after running. Haven't done this yet but I do know I need to check it with cht not connected to harness
4) check air intake temp sensor resistance readings. Haven't done yet
5) mps check for vacuum and check terminal wires resistance. I know that one of the wires was disconnected from plastic connector. I did repair that.
6) trigger points/advance plates

Are there any other checks or sequence of checks that could help me correct the problem? I am trying to attack this problem in a rational sequence. It might be the ecu, maybe the old cracked FI harness, or maybe the distributor. I haven't seen any posts that talk about the rpms starting at 900 rpm then dying after 1-2 minutes. I have seen posts about rpms starting at 1500 rpms then idlying down before dying. I don't know if the aar needs checked or not.
Are there other things to check OR not to check?
One final thing. My gen light does not go out. I am going to jump D+ and DF to see if battery is getting charged. Just saying this just in case this might effect my symptoms.

Thanks,
Buck

[buck toenges]

This is what I did this morning.

tried to check ohms on cht. I must not know how to do it properly but after wiggling the wire I did get some readings. I got 1300 ohms cold. Maybe it was 400 ohms not quite sure. The next thing was to check vacuum on the mps with the hose and without hose. I could get 15 inches of mercury on both ways and no leak down after 5 min. When I started the engine yesterday I did not have the cold start valve hooked up (the 5th injector) since I removed the hose for the fuel pressure gauge. Today I did have it hooked up. The other main thing I did was replace the mps wiring connection with another connector from a FI wiring harness.

The car started great and ran around 1300 rpm for about 2 minutes. It then started to go down in rpms. I then shot some starting fluid into the air filter box and it jump back up in rpms. I did this 3 more times do to the rpms going low and then it stayed at about 800 rpms for over 10 minutes until I turned off the car. I waited a few minutes and started it back up and it stayed at 800 rpms. I let it sit for 30 minutes and then started it up. I started to get the really low rpms going so I shot some more starting fluid in the air filter box and it held idle at 800 rpm.
At any time during this testing I could hit the throttle and it responded great.

So I think it is a lean issue going on. I will check the fuel lines for kinks. Could it be the cht? Should I check for vacuum leaks. I do need it to keep the revs up to 800 rpm without having to resort to using starting fluid.

I will post some video on how the motor is working this evening.

By the way the alternator is working fine now. Maybe it was because the engine hasn't been started in over a year and it is finally running again.

Buck