'75 2.0L d-jet woes Starts off at 900 rpm for 2 min and dies, Is there a sequence to analyze problem? Options

[buck toenges]

Have a 75 D-jet 2.0L in earlier 72 car. Have later model main chassis wiring harness and 75 engine (fI wiring harness with the over rev limit switch. The switch is not hooked up). Car starts right away and idles at 900 rpm. I can rev the engine easily. After 1-2 minutes the engine dies. after that I can start engine it will rev to about 1000 rpm then die. This repeats as I start engine. I have to wait overnight to get the engine to start at 900 rpm and stay that way for 1-2 minutes. I have looked up d-jet stuff like Brad Anders' site and other posts to figure out what to do next.
Is there a sequence that would make the checkout easier?

This is what I have found so far as to sequence:

1)Fuel pressure at FI rail I have done this and it reads about 28-29 lbs during starting, running, and restarting.
2) check points condition and dwell 45-50 degrees Haven't done this yet but points and dist cap look new.
3) check cht ohm readings before starting and after running. Haven't done this yet but I do know I need to check it with cht not connected to harness
4) check air intake temp sensor resistance readings. Haven't done yet
5) mps check for vacuum and check terminal wires resistance. I know that one of the wires was disconnected from plastic connector. I did repair that.
6) trigger points/advance plates

Are there any other checks or sequence of checks that could help me correct the problem? I am trying to attack this problem in a rational sequence. It might be the ecu, maybe the old cracked FI harness, or maybe the distributor. I haven't seen any posts that talk about the rpms starting at 900 rpm then dying after 1-2 minutes. I have seen posts about rpms starting at 1500 rpms then idlying down before dying. I don't know if the aar needs checked or not.
Are there other things to check OR not to check?
One final thing. My gen light does not go out. I am going to jump D+ and DF to see if battery is getting charged. Just saying this just in case this might effect my symptoms.

Thanks,
Buck

[914_teener]

Vaccum leak somewhere and maybe even a couple of issues.


First, the CHT depends on a ground connection to work and if no ground is there the car will not run. Over time and since it is alum to steel it oxidizes. Remove the CHT and clean the threads thoroughly reinstall and make sure the single lead that goes to the FI harness is firmly seated.

Sounds from your description that you have a fuel restriction or a vaccum leak or possibly both. Check ALL the vaccum connections visually and then try to isolate them with a Stethoscope or by spraying the connection with the starting fluid.....be careful. I prefer the former and then a visual. Pull vaccum on the dizzy dashpot as well if you have a stock dizzy. Check the AAR as well for functionality and if it is closing completely. You can bench test this by a simple 12v source and then a flashlight to spy the valve if it is closing. It's just a 12v thermister.

Check the sock in the fuel tank with a flashlight and or pull it and replace it if it appears rusted or collapsed. Then as already mentioned pull the steering rack cover underneath and inspect the fuel lines underneath the tank for kinks and or deterioration.