Flares and wheel size |
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Flares and wheel size |
ottox914 |
Nov 22 2004, 10:45 PM
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#1
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The glory that once was. Group: Members Posts: 1,302 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Mahtomedi, MN Member No.: 1,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Friend of mine and I are building a EMod 914. Class rules are 2.0 and above for motor, and 1500 min. wt. We have located a car with a well built 2.4 4 cyl, 2% or less leak down on all cyls, close ratio LSD trans, already stripped and caged, about 1650 pounds, all steel body. Currently has rabbit flares and runs 7" fuchs on pure slicks, 7" cookies for rain.
It needs more rubber. We'd like to go 16 x 10" or 12" rims all around, and run some pure slicks. No D.O.T. tires here. Wheels will be 3pc, build to whatever offset is needed. Would like to keep the car as narrow as we can, and the tires as wide as we can. Question of the day, how big of a rim/tire will the "GT" flares swallow up? Who else has experience w/other flare/wheel set ups? We could go bigger, to a GT2 flare set, and have the car look a little like the "Rudy" car on the Otto's of venice web page, except in speed yellow. That should swallow up 12's, as that is what the Otto's car runs, and these are the flares on the Fordahl/Leeds 914 that runs 10's. They need to run 10's for class track width limitations. Can there be such a thing as to much rubber for an auto cross car? I could see on a road racer there would be a point of diminishing returns with aero considerations, but for a pure auto x car? Any advice from those who have been there, done that would be welcomed. |
1973914 |
Nov 25 2004, 03:28 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 353 Joined: 16-May 03 From: Washington, DC Member No.: 703 |
The flares were of good quality, but like any fiberglass you have to work with it a little. Will try to get some close ups for you over the next few days. The installation was fairly straightforward though. Basically just cut the existing fenders back with either a cuting wheel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) or plasma cutter (thats what we used (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) ). You will not be removing the entire fender. You must leave some of it there to provide mounting locations for the dzues and support for the fiberglass. I ended up cutting off the sail panel piece that comes with the rear as well.
Once you get to that point, it is a good time to clean up fender wells, check for rust, weld in reinforcement pieces (ala GT kit), and in general give that area some attention. I ended up doing a lot of detailing in there. Next fitment is done and you will need to decide exactly where you will be installing the fasteners. This part is the most time consuming, because you need to have patience with the fasteners. They come in different sizes depending on the thickness of the material you are going through. So, once you have the flares, you need to have an assortment (i got mine right through Steve) . You should plan on creating some custom brackets for the lower front forward edge on the front flares as well. Once you mark and drill your holes (from the inside of the flare btw), you will pop rivet both sides of the fasteners to the car and the flares. in order to get a flusher fit, you should flatten the pop rivets as much as possible. You can also expect to play with the spring on the lower half of the fasteners. Will get some close ups soon. Happy T-Day |
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