Timing Woes, I am certain that I am making this more difficult than necessary Options

[ctc911ctc]

All,

So, I have done this only once before on a VW in '72. SO I am really new at this.

With my '74 2.0L that I am currently working on I am having a great deal of difficulty having certainty as to the timing.

I read and re-read the Birdboard entry on this. Did not disconnect the vacuum first time and now since I know better I thought I would try again.

I used the template to mark the fan at 2.x inches to the left (as viewed from behind the car) of the TDC mark (which is a CIRCLE on this fan) and I found a small notch at the 2.x mark - I marked the blades on either side of this mark with White out to assist in finding it while it is moving.

Warmed up the car and set the timing light to 0-degrees advance. Started the car (vacuum removed and plugged) and started to look at the advance. At idle (still chasing this, cannot get it below 1100/1200) the advance 27deg timing mark is very close to the NOTCH. At higher RPMS the 27deg mark is not close to the notch.

The car is running good - though I am chasing two issues.
1. Running very rich, I may still have a vacuum leak, have replaced near everything with exception of plenum and the connecting gaskets to the intake (next on the list)
2. Idle too fast - Throttle body set screw is in all of the way, too much bypass, need to find the leak. Most likely this is part of the #1

So here are my timing Questions:

1. In the chart below, is there correlation between cars (year/engine) and distributor numbers? Kinda weird that it was put into the Birdboard instructions on this topic with no references to it.

2. If I set the dwell angle on my timing light to the degrees of each of the RPM's might it be easier to find which way I need to go advance? retard? or do we just 'play with it'

3. Is it common to get shocked by the plug wires (they are new) while adjusting this thing while running? BZZZZIP (need an electrocuted emoticon here)

Many Thanks in Advance: Love this Board; CTC911CTC

[76-914]

So you have a new MPS or a rebuilt one? Was it calibrated? Which plug wires are installed? 1200 rpm isn't unreasonable but if you believe that you do indeed have a vacuum leak: When you re-installed the injectors I assume you used new seals but double check that the injector isn't canted to one side. Easy to do but hard to see unless your looking for it. Have you checked the seal beneath their fill tower? Are the rubber intake couplings supple or hard and dry. New intake gaskets? The shaft on the throttle body can wear with use and allow air to enter thru the shaft bushing. The air box/plenum that the throttle body bolts to is known to rust out in places and can be filled with water or alcohol to check for leaks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)