Timing Woes, I am certain that I am making this more difficult than necessary Options

[ctc911ctc]

All,

So, I have done this only once before on a VW in '72. SO I am really new at this.

With my '74 2.0L that I am currently working on I am having a great deal of difficulty having certainty as to the timing.

I read and re-read the Birdboard entry on this. Did not disconnect the vacuum first time and now since I know better I thought I would try again.

I used the template to mark the fan at 2.x inches to the left (as viewed from behind the car) of the TDC mark (which is a CIRCLE on this fan) and I found a small notch at the 2.x mark - I marked the blades on either side of this mark with White out to assist in finding it while it is moving.

Warmed up the car and set the timing light to 0-degrees advance. Started the car (vacuum removed and plugged) and started to look at the advance. At idle (still chasing this, cannot get it below 1100/1200) the advance 27deg timing mark is very close to the NOTCH. At higher RPMS the 27deg mark is not close to the notch.

The car is running good - though I am chasing two issues.
1. Running very rich, I may still have a vacuum leak, have replaced near everything with exception of plenum and the connecting gaskets to the intake (next on the list)
2. Idle too fast - Throttle body set screw is in all of the way, too much bypass, need to find the leak. Most likely this is part of the #1

So here are my timing Questions:

1. In the chart below, is there correlation between cars (year/engine) and distributor numbers? Kinda weird that it was put into the Birdboard instructions on this topic with no references to it.

2. If I set the dwell angle on my timing light to the degrees of each of the RPM's might it be easier to find which way I need to go advance? retard? or do we just 'play with it'

3. Is it common to get shocked by the plug wires (they are new) while adjusting this thing while running? BZZZZIP (need an electrocuted emoticon here)

Many Thanks in Advance: Love this Board; CTC911CTC

[914_teener]

Ok...so since you asked, questions:

What ECU # are you using?

What MPS # are you using?

What MPS # number did you test the calibration against?

What Dizzy # are you using?

How did the injector expert "set up" your injectors?

How did he test the injectors?

What fuel pressure is "perfect".

Are your valves adjusted properly?





Suggestions:

Make sure you have matched D-jet setup with your components.
Make sure your distributor is completely clean...all electrical components including the advance plate are move freely and work properly. Make sure you test each side of the dizzy vac and retard diaphragms are not leaking. Check your trigger points as well for wear ect.

At idle, there would be no other reason you are rich than the ECU is not matched or you have a vaccum leak somewhere. You don't state why you think you are running WAY to rich.

I also think about swapping out a good known ECU if the # is the right and matched to your MPS after checking all of the above.

Edit:

After all of the above check the resistance spec of the CHT.

[ctc911ctc]

Thank you for looking over my shoulder - need this sanity list!!!

Ok...so since you asked, questions:

What ECU # are you using?


I have 2 of these: 039 906 021, both work seemingly the same

What MPS # are you using?

039 906 051 - I have 2 of these as well. Both have the same calibration. The one that came with the car I blew it out when I first tested it for vacuum, my vacuum gun was set to pressure and the MPS would not hold 15 lbs positive........grin........so then I bought the tangerine kit. put it together and calibrated it as per directions.

What MPS # number did you test the calibration against?

I tested the two against each other as well as checked them against this set of instructions:
https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/manif...ration%20Curves





What Dizzy # are you using?

Going to have to get back to you on this, the car was a garage find, assuming it is the original (car has 20K on it) but will verify.


How did the injector expert "set up" your injectors?

See the attached below.

How did he test the injectors?

He uses an ASNU machine, also the dude was a Bosch employee (in Germany) for many years. Good guy, very knowledgeable,

What fuel pressure is "perfect".

29 - rock solid, refurb tank, connectors, stainless gas lines, new pump, filter and all hoses, connectors, etc.


Are your valves adjusted properly?

As per the instructions on the Bird Board, checked them twice, sounds good!



As to the richness, the odor is gas-rich and there is smoke (gray) coming from the pipes....VERY RICH.

Going to look at plenum and change manniford gaskets this weekend, will report back to you,

Many thanks,

CTC911CTC




Suggestions:

Make sure you have matched D-jet setup with your components.
Make sure your distributor is completely clean...all electrical components including the advance plate are move freely and work properly. Make sure you test each side of the dizzy vac and retard diaphragms are not leaking. Check your trigger points as well for wear ect.

At idle, there would be no other reason you are rich than the ECU is not matched or you have a vaccum leak somewhere. You don't state why you think you are running WAY to rich.

I also think about swapping out a good known ECU if the # is the right and matched to your MPS after checking all of the above.

Edit:

After all of the above check the resistance spec of the CHT.

[ctc911ctc]

Thank you for looking over my shoulder - need this sanity list!!!

Ok...so since you asked, questions:

What ECU # are you using?


I have 2 of these: 039 906 021, both work seemingly the same

What MPS # are you using?

039 906 051 - I have 2 of these as well. Both have the same calibration. The one that came with the car I blew it out when I first tested it for vacuum, my vacuum gun was set to pressure and the MPS would not hold 15 lbs positive........grin........so then I bought the tangerine kit. put it together and calibrated it as per directions.

What MPS # number did you test the calibration against?

I tested the two against each other as well as checked them against this set of instructions:
https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/manif...ration%20Curves





What Dizzy # are you using?

Going to have to get back to you on this, the car was a garage find, assuming it is the original (car has 20K on it) but will verify.


How did the injector expert "set up" your injectors?

See the attached below.

How did he test the injectors?

He uses an ASNU machine, also the dude was a Bosch employee (in Germany) for many years. Good guy, very knowledgeable,

What fuel pressure is "perfect".

29 - rock solid, refurb tank, connectors, stainless gas lines, new pump, filter and all hoses, connectors, etc.


Are your valves adjusted properly?

As per the instructions on the Bird Board, checked them twice, sounds good!



As to the richness, the odor is gas-rich and there is smoke (gray) coming from the pipes....VERY RICH.

Going to look at plenum and change manniford gaskets this weekend, will report back to you,

Many thanks,

CTC911CTC




Suggestions:

Make sure you have matched D-jet setup with your components.
Make sure your distributor is completely clean...all electrical components including the advance plate are move freely and work properly. Make sure you test each side of the dizzy vac and retard diaphragms are not leaking. Check your trigger points as well for wear ect.

At idle, there would be no other reason you are rich than the ECU is not matched or you have a vaccum leak somewhere. You don't state why you think you are running WAY to rich.

I also think about swapping out a good known ECU if the # is the right and matched to your MPS after checking all of the above.

Edit:

After all of the above check the resistance spec of the CHT.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)