how to treat the metal inside the foot well., starting to install front oil cooler for a 3.2 Options

[buck toenges]

How should I treat the rust on the inside of the foot well. this area is one of those never exposed areas that hadn't been treated by the factory. Rust doesn't look bad and I probably can't do anything but treat it with some sort of rust inhibitor or encapsulator.

Don't worry about the holes I will get those all cleaned up and oval-ed out. Should those holes be chamfered to limit possible cracks?

[Superhawk996]

I have to ask . . . . why hole saw the longitudinal?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

There are two holes on the inside (passenger compartment) longitudinal of the vehicle that you can access the longitudinal though for the purposes of cavity wax, Eastwood frame paint, etc.

Likewise, now that you have holes what are you going to do to prevent water from getting directly into the long? Hopefully re-welding them closed when done.

You can also access the area on the inside footwell (both sides) via the holes in this little section of mini frame that is underneath the fuel tank. There is one hole on top under the area where the anti-roll bar is and you can see the other one that is lower pretty clearly.

[bbrock]

There are two holes on the inside (passenger compartment) longitudinal of the vehicle that you can access the longitudinal though for the purposes of cavity wax, Eastwood frame paint, etc.

In addition, there are weep holes along the bottoms of the longs that are large enough to snake rust treatment applicator tubes through. Combined with the access holes @Superhawk996 mentioned, there is plenty of access without cutting new holes. Those weep holes often get clogged with undercoating or mud which helps to accelerate corrosion inside. It's a good idea to make sure they are clear so moisture can drain out. Same goes for the little weep holes at the bottoms of the rear suspension mount ears.