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mbseto |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I've been grinding welds with the aluminum oxide wheels I get in a bulk pack from HF and always dread doing it. It's slow and it's a drudgery. A buddy showed me one of these wheels and it is amazing by comparison. Knocks the welds down extremely fast and runs cool - no discoloration in the metal. Is anyone else using these?
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tygaboy |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,589 Joined: 6-October 15 From: Petaluma, CA Member No.: 19,241 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
The biggest difference I've found is moving to high quality abrasives. 3M Cubitron made all the difference over the HF-level stuff.
And I've used those wheels but found they didn't offer me the level of control I wanted. I follow this process: - 3 inch air angle grinder w/ Roloc backer pad - 3M Cubitron abrasives - Start w/36 grit, use a steep angle and cut only weld material. Go SLOWLY. I used a "long-ish blip, blip" to keep accurate control over the cutting. Once "close" to the parent material: - Switch to 80 grit. Shallower angle, same go SLOW approach. - Once the edge of the weld starts to show a blend with the parent material: - Switch to 80 grit on a DA to do final blending. The 3M stuff cuts so quickly, I have yet to experience heat-related distortion. Pics of a recent repair using the above approach. Hope this helps. Also, a while back @McMark posted a vid of his technique when doing sheet metal repair. Maybe he'll point us at it... Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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