Push Rod Tube Seal Leak |
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Push Rod Tube Seal Leak |
collinvon |
Jun 19 2019, 02:27 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 42 Joined: 11-June 19 From: St. Paul, Minnesota Member No.: 23,207 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Looks like I found where all the oil has been coming from. I cleaned the engine as well as I could with a degreaser, ran it for 5 minutes at idle, and was able to spot a substantial leak coming out of the push rod tubes:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23207-1560976029.1.jpg) I'm going to tackle this project this weekend. I've found some good older articles that mention it can be done without dropping the engine, but might have to replace the seals on a couple without fully removing them. I'm going to replace the valve cover gaskets, adjust the valves for the first time, and I'll being doing the first oil change since I've had it. I've heard Valvoline ZR1 20W-50 is a good oil to use, and I can find it locally. Thoughts? Aside from ensuring I don't damage the seals on reinstallation, and thoroughly cleaning everything, anything else I should keep in mind, or try to tackle while I'm in there? Any other tips and tricks are much appreciated. Thanks in advance for any feedback. |
Mark Henry |
Jun 19 2019, 03:33 PM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
To do them without dropping the engine you can remove the shift rod, loosen or remove the clutch cable, etc, then undo the front mounts and drop the nose about 4-6" . PITA on jack stands but doable, I have a lift and use my tranny jack to do this.
I use Dow 55, it's a mil spec O-ring lube, I used to use liquid teflon or even oil, I don't like putting them in dry. Heads off I use a 120g drill flap wheel to to clean the head bores, on a rebuild I also do this on the case bore, but not on a assembled engine. With some sandpaper or scotchbrite pad make sure the bore openings have no sharp edges. Everything spotless clean and degreased. As I put the PR tube in I spin the tube 1/4- 1/3 turn as I install, this and cleaning up the bores is so you won't cut/nick the seal as you install. Double check that the PR tube retaining springs sit correctly, Likely you'll have to use needle nose pliers to pull them out so both corners sit on the PR tube edge correctly. Oil, you're in minnesota, cold spring/fall mornings, so I'd recommend 15w40. |
collinvon |
Jun 19 2019, 04:05 PM
Post
#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 42 Joined: 11-June 19 From: St. Paul, Minnesota Member No.: 23,207 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
To do them without dropping the engine you can remove the shift rod, loosen or remove the clutch cable, etc, then undo the front mounts and drop the nose about 4-6" . PITA on jack stands but doable, I have a lift and use my tranny jack to do this. I use Dow 55, it's a mil spec O-ring lube, I used to use liquid teflon or even oil, I don't like putting them in dry. Heads off I use a 120g drill flap wheel to to clean the head bores, on a rebuild I also do this on the case bore, but not on a assembled engine. With some sandpaper or scotchbrite pad make sure the bore openings have no sharp edges. Everything spotless clean and degreased. As I put the PR tube in I spin the tube 1/4- 1/3 turn as I install, this and cleaning up the bores is so you won't cut/nick the seal as you install. Double check that the PR tube retaining springs sit correctly, Likely you'll have to use needle nose pliers to pull them out so both corners sit on the PR tube edge correctly. Oil, you're in minnesota, cold spring/fall mornings, so I'd recommend 15w40. Awesome, thank you for the tips. Sounds like pulling the engine might just be the way to go. |
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