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bbrock |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
This is a pretty specific question but wondering if anyone has experience or thoughts on PPG K36 vs. K38 primer surfacers. In reading other forums, it seems some people think that because K38 is a high build surfacer, it has a higher solids content and therefore less shrink back. Local shop stocks K36 but has to order K38 which is also more expensive.
Would one month sitting in the sun be enough time for either of these to shrink before blocking, seal, and finish coat? I realize there are probably cheaper options that are just as good but I'm pretty limited on what is available at the local paint shop and want to keep all the products in the same paint family since I'm a novice at this. TIA. |
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bbrock |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Thanks! Yes, I'll be spraying it over DP50LF (the gray version of DPLF). I also plan to let the DPLF sit at least a day before shooting K36. How long do you let the K36 sit before block sanding?
Can't remember if it was Kevin Tetz or someone else on youtube who talked generally about surfacers not being very strong if you left it stacked too high. They recommended block sanding until the primer starts peeking through the hight spots to make sure you had the surface as tight to the body as possible. Made sense to me. I have only painted one car before, way back in the days of lacquer. My wife's 914. It looked nice, but being lacquer, was only temporary. |
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