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bbrock |
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#1
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
This is a pretty specific question but wondering if anyone has experience or thoughts on PPG K36 vs. K38 primer surfacers. In reading other forums, it seems some people think that because K38 is a high build surfacer, it has a higher solids content and therefore less shrink back. Local shop stocks K36 but has to order K38 which is also more expensive.
Would one month sitting in the sun be enough time for either of these to shrink before blocking, seal, and finish coat? I realize there are probably cheaper options that are just as good but I'm pretty limited on what is available at the local paint shop and want to keep all the products in the same paint family since I'm a novice at this. TIA. |
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bbrock |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Okay, so the people complaining about shrinking on the Interwebs probably are abusing the product. I was beginning to suspect that. I've seen some people doing meticulous restorations recommending letting the car sit for a month or more after spraying surfacer which is really what got me worried. I guess if you can afford that kind of time, there is no harm in it.
I'll still try to let mine sit a week before blocking. I've already applied a skim coat of high quality filler on top of DPLF epoxy primer over the exterior and blocked it all down until the high spots were peeking through, so the body should be pretty straight at this point.. I'll hit it with another coat of DPLF and let that cure for a day or two before spraying the K36. And @roblav1 , thanks for the info on quantity. I'll pick up a gallon early this week because that will actually be cheaper than buying 3 quarts. Thanks all for the help! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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