Painting trunk lids off the car, What's your process? Options

[bbrock]

I'd like to say this will be my last painting question, but I don't want to lie. I'm planning the logistics of painting all the pieces not attached to the car (trunk lids, engine lide, headlight covers). It shouldn't be hard except I'm spraying 2-stage metallic which complicates things a little. Some considerations:

1. Metallic should be sprayed with panels oriented the same as they will be on the car to avoid funky discontinuity in how the flakes lay where panels meet (e.g. trunk to fender).

2. PPG DBC base coat has to be clearcoated within 24 hours.

3. PPG Concept clear coat requires minimum 16 hours air dry time.

I can think of a couple ways to tackle this:

1. Lay panels flat and upside down on racks. Spray base and clear on the underside, then give them a day or so to air dry. Then flip them over and and repeat to paint the top sides. That means the whole car will be painted in stages over 2-3 days.

2. Same as above but spray base coat on bottoms. Let dry an hour or two. Flip over and spray base on the tops. Let dry. Then hang them so I can clear coat both sides at once. Complete car sprayed in 1-2 days but more handling parts.

Which would be less likely to bite me in the ass? Or maybe something I haven't thought of. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[914forme]

Can be an issue, I am 6'2" so it works for me.

Back in the mid 90s I did a car with real gold flake, PPG charged just shy of $1200 per gallon back then. I am just glad it was the exterior color and I could use none metallic black every where else on the car.

Long of the short, got base on the car, owner stopped by hated the gold metallic, and had me reshoot it, with a traditional metallic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Hey he paid for the labor and materials, so why not.

Somewhere there is a pimped out farm trailer running around with real gold in its paint, as that is what I shot next to get rid of the rest of the gallon.