No power to injectors again!, Got spark, gas, at a total loss Options

[surfdogskier]

Oh my gosh!!!! She is back to doing this same thing all over again. I finally got her running . She ran fine one evening, parked her. Next day she would not start. No power to the injectors. I got spark. I got gas in the lines. Fuel pump works like it should. I took the distributor out and cleaned the trigger points to see if that would help. All wires are connected. MPS connected. All vacuum lines connected. I bought a noid light set up and they are definitely not getting power.

What else could it be? Something on the relay board? Bad relay?

This car is driving me insane. I am about to go duel carbs and drop this piece of **** fuel injection if I can't get this thing running.

[JeffBowlsby]

Surfdog, please don't take this personally, just trying to turn this into a learning experience for all, going forward. These are old cars. If these parts are work out, then they may need replacement - standard maintenance for any car.

The easy thing and for some, the hardest thing about D-Jet is that there are only a limited number of components, and each of them can be tested individually for function with either an ohmmeter, fuel pressure gauge, a few simple tools, or a service can test these for you. If each of these tests good, then the system is plug N play. If not...maybe its another problem and not the FI?

ECU - rarely go bad...but maybe. Not expensive to replace.
FI harness - simple continuity test, new are available.
IGN harness and tri-spade ground, - simple continuity test, and new are available.
MPS - easy to test with the right equipment, rebuilt available, not expensive.
Trigger points - easy to test, lasts a long time and can be adjusted if worn.
TPS, with gaskets - inexpensive new boards are available.
270ohm resistor (1973 2.0L only)
4 fuel injectors - Maintenance cleaning is not expensive, aftermarket injectors available
1 cold start valve injector and thermo switch (optional)
TS1 (air temp) (optional)
TS2 (head temp), available
Fuel pump, spendy for the OEM, functional alternative pump not expensive.
Fuel pressure regulator - do these ever go bad?

The air supply related parts - rarely a problem unless the plenum or gaskets are leaky, and those are repairable/replaceable.

[surfdogskier]

Surfdog, please don't take this personally, just trying to turn this into a learning experience for all, going forward. These are old cars. If these parts are work out, then they may need replacement - standard maintenance for any car.

The easy thing and for some, the hardest thing about D-Jet is that there are only a limited number of components, and each of them can be tested individually for function with either an ohmmeter, fuel pressure gauge, a few simple tools, or a service can test these for you. If each of these tests good, then the system is plug N play. If not...maybe its another problem and not the FI?

ECU - rarely go bad...but maybe. Not expensive to replace.
FI harness - simple continuity test, new are available.
IGN harness and tri-spade ground, - simple continuity test, and new are available.
MPS - easy to test with the right equipment, rebuilt available, not expensive.
Trigger points - easy to test, lasts a long time and can be adjusted if worn.
TPS, with gaskets - inexpensive new boards are available.
270ohm resistor (1973 2.0L only)
4 fuel injectors - Maintenance cleaning is not expensive, aftermarket injectors available
1 cold start valve injector and thermo switch (optional)
TS1 (air temp) (optional)
TS2 (head temp), available
Fuel pump, spendy for the OEM, functional alternative pump not expensive.
Fuel pressure regulator - do these ever go bad?

The air supply related parts - rarely a problem unless the plenum or gaskets are leaky, and those are repairable/replaceable.

Hey Jeff. Thanks for all the help you have given. Definitely not taken personally. I wish I could leave it but to many unknowns still. I just didn't want to keep dropping $$$ into something which I lost trust in. Just way to many components to keep up with when I can just convert it over to something much easier and in my opinion, more reliable. I just want a car that will start when I need it and take me from point A to point B and back. Don't need performance or gas mileage where my top speed will rarely exceed 55mph.