Why not use bushing grease on a-arm bushings? Options

[Tdskip]

Hi guys - I know how it is commonly done including Ian’s great video. Is there a reason why not to use bushing grease instead of softsoap?

So you want the bushing NOT to move or rotate ones installed? I assume that is a reason but wanted to ask.

Thanks.

[Chi-town]

If you get a Powerflex bushing to bind you have done something seriously wrong (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

@mikey914 that's just it, they are never at 0 preload. If every car was exactly the same weight and at the same height for the life of the car this could be true. But variation in weight (empty vs full fuel tank) and height adjustment means they are always preloaded in some direction.

The torsion bar doesn't need a return force by nature they create it when twisted.

The rubber bushings are a classic "cost vs performance vs comfort" production car compromise.

Race cars use pillow ball, spherical or delrin (or similar materials) for bushings not poly unless some special need arises.

Bushing technology has come a long way since the rock hard Weltmeister poly bushings of the 80's and a whole lot further than the rubber compounds used in the 60's and 70's.

If you're doing a "correct" restoration sure use rubber
If you drive your car and want the best handling with little to no change in nvh there are better options available.

[Mikey914]

If you get a Powerflex bushing to bind you have done something seriously wrong (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

@mikey914 that's just it, they are never at 0 preload. If every car was exactly the same weight and at the same height for the life of the car this could be true. But variation in weight (empty vs full fuel tank) and height adjustment means they are always preloaded in some direction.

The torsion bar doesn't need a return force by nature they create it when twisted.

The rubber bushings are a classic "cost vs performance vs comfort" production car compromise.

Race cars use pillow ball, spherical or delrin (or similar materials) for bushings not poly unless some special need arises.

Bushing technology has come a long way since the rock hard Weltmeister poly bushings of the 80's and a whole lot further than the rubber compounds used in the 60's and 70's.

If you're doing a "correct" restoration sure use rubber
If you drive your car and want the best handling with little to no change in nvh there are better options available.

We actually spend quite some time looking at whether to make in a poly or use the rubber. Often material improve and make the old material a better selection.

What we discovered actually did surprise us a little as we made the assumption the newer material was better. The factory designed the front suspension to have a preload.

So when it's on the ground it has some tension on the bushings. Zero reference point is with the suspension fully lowered. Yes it has a pre load that works with the struts, springs and if you have one sway bar.

That was the problem with the ones Elephant was showing. The smaller bushings would slip, and not uniformly. This created uneven loading. So if you made a bunch of hard right turns, and got the feel for the suspension, you go to make a hard left and it will not behave like the turn to the right, it will be harder. It MAY work itself out, but do you really want random variable loading on your front suspension?

The factory ones lasted at LEAST 25 years. Many are still driving around on the factory ones. I think they got it right at the factory here.

The ones we sell are a little over $15 each, meet factory spec. and if you buy our bushings we will sell you a tool for a little less than $25 that you can use to install them.

Also, Poly bushings do require lubrication.

By the way we can run several different poly compounds in our tool. Just would need to have enough folks that want them. We just didn't see the need.

Price point is similar, if we set up to do about 50 cars worth.