Clutch, oil-return tube O-rings done--lessons learned, etc, And a big THANKS to "wndsrfr"! Options

[anderssj]

Good morning!

After a couple of semi-crappy experiences with shops in the local area, I've decided to take the plunge and fix my slipping clutch and leaky oil-return tubes myself--with considerable help, guidance, and moral support from "wndsrfr." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

As a first step, I'm cataloging all the parts, bits, and pieces I think I'll need--but if it looks like I've left anything out, please let me know.

1. Clutch kit from Pelican--the one that includes a new flywheel. I've gone back through all the maintenance receipts and while I see at least one re-surfacing, it looks like the flywheel has never been replaced. I figure it's time...

2. Flywheel/crankcase seal (black Sabo piece from GoWesty).

3. I have a set of black Viton o-rings from a friend here on 914world, so I should be good to go. That said, should I consider new push-rod tubes (like the Dansk ones from Pelican)? I like the thought of the stainless ones from Chris at tangerine, but $$$--on the other hand, Christmas is only a little over a month away... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)

4. A case of Guiness.

5. New valve cover gaskets (OEM cork? Or the thicker ones from Mikey?)

6. New copper heat exchanger seals/gaskets (Victor Reinz @ Pelican?).

7. New copper flange nuts for heat exchanges from BelMetric (NCF8X12 - Copper Flange Nut): https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c...-nut-p-189.html

8. New 8mm Schnorr washers for CVs (and maybe a couple of new CV bolts just in case).

8. A case of Guiness.

9. I'll probably do new motor and transmission mounts "while I'm in there." Looks like original 914 motor mounts are still available, but not trans mounts. Thinking of using 911 "sport" engine mounts (911-375-043-00) for the trans, but open to recommendations (Wevo "black cushion"?)

10. Transmission leaks slightly from the big black cover at the shift console, so will do the o-ring and seal while the transmission is out.

That's what I have so far. Am I missing anything? Do I need more Guiness? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Appreciate your inputs (the support and expertise here on this site is amazing)! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Thanks in advance,

Steve A-

[rjames]

If you're replacing the pushrod seals, you may want to just get new tubes, too. When replacing the seals, I couldn't remove mine without destroying the tubes. It took vise grips to get them to budge, and even with those it wasn't easy. Was almost humorous. Almost. I got pushrod tubes from a VW supplier. Fairly cheap and did the job.

Not sure what the Pelican clutch kit includes, but make sure you get new flywheel bolts and also the tool that keeps the flywheel from moving when loosening or tightening the bolts.

Make sure you have the correct tool to remove the CV bolts.
Torque wrench for flywheel bolts and CV bolts

Transmission linkage cone set-screw (you'll be removing the shift rod, and the screws should not be re-used).

New rear main seal and a dial indicator to check end play before installing the new seal.
There's a tool available for installing the RMS, but if you're careful you can use a piece of PVC pipe cut to match, or a flat block wood for tapping it in straight.

Maybe new transmission fluid if it hasn't been changed in a long time.

And since you're fixing leaks- check the oil cooler to see if it's leaking. Seals are cheap, and the job can be done with the engine in (with lots of patience).

Have fun!

[porschetub]

If you're replacing the pushrod seals, you may want to just get new tubes, too. When replacing the seals, I couldn't remove mine without destroying the tubes. It took vise grips to get them to budge, and even with those it wasn't easy. Was almost humorous. Almost. I got pushrod tubes from a VW supplier. Fairly cheap and did the job.

Not sure what the Pelican clutch kit includes, but make sure you get new flywheel bolts and also the tool that keeps the flywheel from moving when loosening or tightening the bolts.

Make sure you have the correct tool to remove the CV bolts.
Torque wrench for flywheel bolts and CV bolts

Transmission linkage cone set-screw (you'll be removing the shift rod, and the screws should not be re-used).

New rear main seal and a dial indicator to check end play before installing the new seal.
There's a tool available for installing the RMS, but if you're careful you can use a piece of PVC pipe cut to match, or a flat block wood for tapping it in straight.

Maybe new transmission fluid if it hasn't been changed in a long time.

And since you're fixing leaks- check the oil cooler to see if it's leaking. Seals are cheap, and the job can be done with the engine in (with lots of patience).

Have fun!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I haven't seen a clutch kit that includes the new flywheel bolts,on my last engine build I bought new flywheel bolts from Fat Performance,a fraction of the price of original ,these are sold as heavy duty and from memory they were $15 for 5.
Don't forget to buy the metal washer that go's behind the flywheel bolts,this is a "one use" part,make sure you check the thrust bearing in the end of the crank ,I usually clean them out and relube if ok.
Changing the input shaft seal is a good move also,they can look ok and then fail latter,ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ,not worth ruining a clutch plate for such a cheap part,mine wasn't worn but had gone rock hard a split when I removed it.
Good luck.