Clutch, oil-return tube O-rings done--lessons learned, etc, And a big THANKS to "wndsrfr"! |
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Clutch, oil-return tube O-rings done--lessons learned, etc, And a big THANKS to "wndsrfr"! |
anderssj |
Nov 22 2019, 08:58 AM
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#1
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Dog is my copilot... Group: Members Posts: 1,664 Joined: 28-January 03 From: VA Member No.: 207 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Good morning!
After a couple of semi-crappy experiences with shops in the local area, I've decided to take the plunge and fix my slipping clutch and leaky oil-return tubes myself--with considerable help, guidance, and moral support from "wndsrfr." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) As a first step, I'm cataloging all the parts, bits, and pieces I think I'll need--but if it looks like I've left anything out, please let me know. 1. Clutch kit from Pelican--the one that includes a new flywheel. I've gone back through all the maintenance receipts and while I see at least one re-surfacing, it looks like the flywheel has never been replaced. I figure it's time... 2. Flywheel/crankcase seal (black Sabo piece from GoWesty). 3. I have a set of black Viton o-rings from a friend here on 914world, so I should be good to go. That said, should I consider new push-rod tubes (like the Dansk ones from Pelican)? I like the thought of the stainless ones from Chris at tangerine, but $$$--on the other hand, Christmas is only a little over a month away... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) 4. A case of Guiness. 5. New valve cover gaskets (OEM cork? Or the thicker ones from Mikey?) 6. New copper heat exchanger seals/gaskets (Victor Reinz @ Pelican?). 7. New copper flange nuts for heat exchanges from BelMetric (NCF8X12 - Copper Flange Nut): https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c...-nut-p-189.html 8. New 8mm Schnorr washers for CVs (and maybe a couple of new CV bolts just in case). 8. A case of Guiness. 9. I'll probably do new motor and transmission mounts "while I'm in there." Looks like original 914 motor mounts are still available, but not trans mounts. Thinking of using 911 "sport" engine mounts (911-375-043-00) for the trans, but open to recommendations (Wevo "black cushion"?) 10. Transmission leaks slightly from the big black cover at the shift console, so will do the o-ring and seal while the transmission is out. That's what I have so far. Am I missing anything? Do I need more Guiness? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Appreciate your inputs (the support and expertise here on this site is amazing)! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Thanks in advance, Steve A- |
Mark Henry |
Nov 23 2019, 08:26 AM
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
As far as I know the T4 flywheel bolts are not stretch bolts (/6 bolts are stretch bolts), I've reused them for years without issue, my 2600cc engine has reused bolts.
Checking endplay is a good idea, use the old metal washer to do the checks and then use the new washer as your last step. Deformed PR tubes can be reformed by pressing a socket through them. I usually only toss them if they have rust damage. The head and case bores must be spotless clean. I use Dow 55 O-ring lube, but loctite PST 592 is a good alternative. As I install the PR tube I give it a slight turning action being careful not to cut the O-ring as I install. A new pilot bearing and felt washer/seal should be installed. The rest is pretty well covered above. |
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