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Superhawk996 |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,050 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
Last week I bought engine GA000099 from Freezing914 in the hopes of picking up some spare parts to support rebuild of the engine that came with my vehicle.
During the teardown of my vehicles engine, it is quickly becoming clear that the engine was abused by some DAPO. Cooling flaps and thermostat had been removed. Rust in the sump. The crank was scored and already 0.010" undersized. The oil pump was torn up. This is just the tip of the iceberg on the engine that came with my vehicle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) 14 hours of driving seems to have netted me an engine that might be worthy of a rebuild. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) This engine appears to be bone stock. D-jet mostly complete. As an added bonus I discovered upon teardown that none of the cooling tin fasteners have ever been disturbed. No screwdriver marks! But . . . like any engine of this age and unknown origin, it absolutely needs to be gone though. |
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Superhawk996 |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,050 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
While I'm waiting on my garage to heat up this morning I thought I'd post the setup for the last galley plug and short video making chips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0OtYHrOzqo In the case of this galley hole, I couldn't go as deep as I would normally without intersecting the oil pressure relief valve bore. That meant using a drill was out since it has a tapered point that simply adds unnecessary length to the hole bore. A 7/16" center cutting end mill is the solution that allows the bore to be flat bottomed and as short as possible. Once the bore was done I started the 1/4" NPT tap as usual but in the case of this bore, I couldn't go as deep as I would normally would. This meant that the 1/4" tap couldn't be inserted deep enough to get the plug to sit flush with the surface. ![]() The solution to this problem is to start the tap normally, and, get as many threads cut as possible before the tap bottoms in the bore. Once those initial threads were formed, I then had to convert my tap to a bottoming tap. If you're not familiar with the various types of taps here is a quick link: https://www.yamawa.com/Portals/0/resource/e...df/tips-007.pdf Since I didn't have a 1/4" NPT bottoming tap on hand and knew that this was the last hole I was going to tap, I made one by using a cut-off wheel to take off the chamfered portion of the plug tap. ![]() The main downside to this approach is that I will need to buy another 1/4" NPT tap to repace this one, but, it works in a pinch. The upside is that I now have a 1/4" NPT bottoming tap should I ever need one again! |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 13th May 2025 - 01:15 AM |
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