Clutch, oil-return tube O-rings done--lessons learned, etc, And a big THANKS to "wndsrfr"! Options

[anderssj]

Good morning!

After a couple of semi-crappy experiences with shops in the local area, I've decided to take the plunge and fix my slipping clutch and leaky oil-return tubes myself--with considerable help, guidance, and moral support from "wndsrfr." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

As a first step, I'm cataloging all the parts, bits, and pieces I think I'll need--but if it looks like I've left anything out, please let me know.

1. Clutch kit from Pelican--the one that includes a new flywheel. I've gone back through all the maintenance receipts and while I see at least one re-surfacing, it looks like the flywheel has never been replaced. I figure it's time...

2. Flywheel/crankcase seal (black Sabo piece from GoWesty).

3. I have a set of black Viton o-rings from a friend here on 914world, so I should be good to go. That said, should I consider new push-rod tubes (like the Dansk ones from Pelican)? I like the thought of the stainless ones from Chris at tangerine, but $$$--on the other hand, Christmas is only a little over a month away... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)

4. A case of Guiness.

5. New valve cover gaskets (OEM cork? Or the thicker ones from Mikey?)

6. New copper heat exchanger seals/gaskets (Victor Reinz @ Pelican?).

7. New copper flange nuts for heat exchanges from BelMetric (NCF8X12 - Copper Flange Nut): https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c...-nut-p-189.html

8. New 8mm Schnorr washers for CVs (and maybe a couple of new CV bolts just in case).

8. A case of Guiness.

9. I'll probably do new motor and transmission mounts "while I'm in there." Looks like original 914 motor mounts are still available, but not trans mounts. Thinking of using 911 "sport" engine mounts (911-375-043-00) for the trans, but open to recommendations (Wevo "black cushion"?)

10. Transmission leaks slightly from the big black cover at the shift console, so will do the o-ring and seal while the transmission is out.

That's what I have so far. Am I missing anything? Do I need more Guiness? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Appreciate your inputs (the support and expertise here on this site is amazing)! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Thanks in advance,

Steve A-

[anderssj]

Finished up the clutch and pushrod tube 0-ring work yesterday (Friday), and thought an “after action report” might be appropriate.

First and most important: A big THANK YOU to John (“wndsrfr”) Perry. I wouldn’t/couldn’t have tackled this job without your help and guidance. I learned a lot, and enjoyed working with you even more.

Second, some of the things we found on disassembly were kind of surprising—especially since these items had all been done by “professionals.” Some samples:

a. Every valve was too tight/too little clearance. 2L engine spec calls for .006”/.008” clearance for intake/exhaust valves, respectively. Most were at a tight .004” with a couple less than that (last adjustment was done buy a VA Beach shop less than 2K miles ago).
b. Valve covers were installed upside down, with gaskets RTV’d to the covers (when correctly installed, the stamped VW logo should be upside down). Same shop that did the valve adjustment.
c. Transmission main-shaft seal was cocked/pinched, with damage to the outside circumference. We noticed it as soon as we removed the TO bearing, so it would have been obvious to the technician that installed it (sorry, I should have taken a picture).
d. NO copper sealing rings between heads/exhaust ports and heat exchangers.

There were others, but you get the idea…

Third, a few lessons learned:
a. The Haynes manual has it right, “Do not be mean [cheap] about replacements. If anything is suspect, it will be a very false economy to use it again.” (pg 69, para 12)
b. I was glad to have all of the parts I thought I might possibly need on hand, even if some weren't used (e.g., an assortment of different size shims, etc.).
b. Having some spares of the more critical replacement parts "just in case" was a cheap way to get additional peace of mind. I bought an extra rear main seal, main shaft seal, flywheel o-ring, flywheel bolt locking ring, copper exhaust gaskets, etc.—basically, anything you might screw up during the repair—especially the copper exhaust gaskets:



c. Measure/mic-out any shims or other precision parts before installing. Of the four crankshaft shims I ordered, two were swapped/sent in mis-marked envelopes when shipped.
d. Check the play and clearance on the clutch arm before putting the transmission back in the car. I assumed that since I was installing all new parts (including the flywheel) I wouldn’t need a shim/washer under the pivot ball. WRONG! Without the washer, the clutch arm was < 1/8” from the transmission case at full throw. Adding the washer under the ball (as John had suggested in the first place), gave it the additional clearance it needed.
e. Remind yourself (or ask John to remind you) that solving the inevitable problems that arise—like removing a stuck seal or a broken screw or making a decision to remove and reinstall the transmission—“require great peace of mind.”
f. Related to the above, if you don't feel good about something, recheck it, fix it, or whatever, until you're comfortable with it. I COULD have left the transmission installed and lived with the limited clearance for a while, but I’d have never been happy with it.
g. Get as much light in the work area as you can…and put an LED bulb in your drop light (because it WILL get dropped—multiple times). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

There were lots of other things too, but I’ve gone on long enough for one post. That said, I would be happy to answer any specific questions about parts used and who sourced them, etc.

Thanks again to John, and all the others here who offered advice and support--you guys are great!

Steve A-