1.7L to 2056 Options

[sreyemj]

I have a 1.7L motor in my project 914 that needs to be refreshed and I'm thinking of converting it to a 2056 at the same time. This is a somewhat budget build, I'm on a timeline to get it back on the road this summer and as a student there's no way I can justify buying a 9k kit. After looking through quite a few threads on the subject, I'm considering having the case line bored and checked by Tims ACVW in Kent, WA (or maybe there is someone else in Washington State I should consider?). I would prefer to assemble the engine myself if I have time (depending on the rest of the car), otherwise I'll have it assembled.

FAT/Rimco have a 2056 short block kit including pistons and cylinders for $1800 and 1.7L head exchange with 42x36mm valves for $1600. I'm not sure than includes opening the heads up for 96mm cylinders. The FC 442 camshaft looks to be more for carbs, I'm thinking I may want a different camshaft so I can stay with my stock D-jet. Anyone have any experience or input on the FAT/Rimco kit or heads? Is there another option I should consider at the price point?

Short block kit:
https://fatperformance-rimco.com/products/t...short-block-kit

Heads:
https://fatperformance-rimco.com/collection...-heads-exchange

[andreic]

Here is my experience rebuilding a 1.8L. I bought an engine that had been disassembled and cleaned up, and came with new 1911 new cylinders and pistons, new bearings, and a few other things, for $900. The case turned out to need machining done, and that was aboui $800. I needed to get a new cam (the old cam was out of spec; it did come with a brand new cam but that was only usable with carbs, and I wanted to stay with FI), that was another $200 or so (quoting from memory here), With everything else the total build cost was around $3000, and the car ran better than before, though I did not notice a substantial increase in power. It’s the little things that add up quickly into the cost (buying an engine stand; all the sealants used in the build; new spark plugs and wires, new oil pump, used lifters, etc.). I don’t regret the experience of doing that build, but if I were to do it again I would buy a good running 2.0L engine which has never been carbed and has low miles — such a thing comes available every once in a while for under $1500.