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mountainroads |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 210 Joined: 19-February 12 From: Seattle Member No.: 14,145 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
This topic has probably come up before, I honestly tried the search function with several options, but couldn't find anything??
The in-cabin fire extinguisher that came with the car is up for renewal. I'm a cheap bastard at heart, but this doesn't seem like the right time to cheap out and forego a replacement, even if it's for something I hope I'll never have to use. Especially since even the "good" ones I saw were all sub-$100 (?) I like the idea of keeping handy in the cabin instead of one of the trunks. Realize that comes with some space and mounting considerations. FWIW: My existing unit was mounted parallel to the tunnel and ahead of the shifter (no center console box). What does this esteemed knowledge base use and where/how do you mount? Thanks in advance for recommendations. - MR PS: Hope I'm not opening another religious debate, similar to "What's the best engine oil?" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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bkrantz |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,360 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
For many years I was an SCCA corner worker, and I also owned and drove my own race cars. What I learned from both practice fires and real racing incidents is that once a fire gets established (burning oil, rubber, breached fuel tank or cell) it is beyond anything hand-held. Standard dry-chem can knock down flames, but hot parts can re-ignite the fire. And dry-chem is caustic, and can corrode aluminum, wiring, plastics, etc. Halon is most effective in closed spaces since it displaces oxygen. I works best if pre-plumbed into the engine compartment or fuel storage area, but maybe not so well if you have to open a lid for access.
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