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rjames |
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,309 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Drove around for 30 minutes in 80+ degree weather. All arterial roads, so several stop lights, etc. No problems until I was almost home. Car stalled when I stopped at a light. RPMs just dropped to zero. Was able to start it again with a little difficulty and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out again. Power seemed ok though the rest of the way home (I think). It stalled once again at a stop light a couple of blocks from home and then again when I pulled in the driveway. I let it sit for 30 seconds, started it again and it idled just fine. Rock solid at 1000 RPMs. Pulled it into the garage where it sits now.
Prior to today the car has been running and idling perfectly since I went through the FI parts last year, which included installing a 123 distributor, new CHT sensor, a newly rebuilt mps (calibrated for correct afr on my engine), new vacuum hoses, NOS throttle body, rebuilt injectors, new fuel pump, valve adjustment and timing. I haven’t checked the AFR since last year, not sure why it would change though. It’s a ‘75 so the fuel pump is in the front, so I can rule out vapor lock I think. Anyone have ideas as to why it would be stalling? |
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,186 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None ![]() |
if it is a 1.8 the air flow meter flap could be sticking and that would cause your problem. They get hot and the device expands causing the warped flap to stick in the bore, and suddenly the control unit thinks that the car is running at 140 miles and hour and adds all of the extra fuel. As long as you have your foot in it, it is just running rich, but as soon as the car comes down to idle it cannot handle the extra fuel and floods out. THEN the air flow meter cools a bit the flap unsticks, the car starts, and it as if nothing has happened. Check the oil level as well, as this condition causes the extra richness to dilute the oil with gas
Drove around for 30 minutes in 80+ degree weather. All arterial roads, so several stop lights, etc. No problems until I was almost home. Car stalled when I stopped at a light. RPMs just dropped to zero. Was able to start it again with a little difficulty and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out again. Power seemed ok though the rest of the way home (I think). It stalled once again at a stop light a couple of blocks from home and then again when I pulled in the driveway. I let it sit for 30 seconds, started it again and it idled just fine. Rock solid at 1000 RPMs. Pulled it into the garage where it sits now. Prior to today the car has been running and idling perfectly since I went through the FI parts last year, which included installing a 123 distributor, new CHT sensor, a newly rebuilt mps (calibrated for correct afr on my engine), new vacuum hoses, NOS throttle body, rebuilt injectors, new fuel pump, valve adjustment and timing. I haven’t checked the AFR since last year, not sure why it would change though. It’s a ‘75 so the fuel pump is in the front, so I can rule out vapor lock I think. Anyone have ideas as to why it would be stalling? |
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