Rear Brake bleeding question Options

[Frankvw]

Hi all, I replaced the calipers and pads and flex hoses in the rear. (1973 1,7)
Old brake fluid from reservoir removed with siringe and filled with new fluid.
I did set the clearance on the inner and outer on both sides.
Then I did bleed the brakes and checked the clearance again (was still OK)
Now the proportioning valve part....do I need someone to push the pedal to the floor, keep pedal at floor and then I bleed again while pedal is down? Or does it work another way ?
Or is it not needed after what I already did ?
Thanks for your reply !

[iankarr]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The pressure system is great. I use the Motive, but Iron Hill's setup is way less spendy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif). Here's a video I made on the process...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymHHD6uKhfc

The fluid has to go through the proportioning valve to get to the calipers, so assuming the system hasn't run dry, you shouldn't need to do anything special. If it has run dry, you may need to tap on it with a rubber mallet to dislodge any air bubbles.

I replaced my calipers a few months back and it was a PITA to get them fully bled. Here are a few tips that seem to accelerate the process. You may not need all or any of them. YMMV.

– Open the lower and upper bleed screws on the caliper(s). Take some tubing and a fat syringe and inject some brake fluid in the lower one and let it overflow out of the upper one.

– With the pressure bleeder at 5-7psi and fluid coming out of the calipers, have someone ALSO step on the pedal, firmly and slowly. don't go all the way to the floor, though! Keep a close eye on fluid level and pressure on the bleeder.

– After you have a decently firm pedal, drive the car over some rough road or train tracks for a few minutes, then come back and bleed again.

If you also installed pads and rotors, don't forget to "bed" them per the PMB process.


Be safe! Brakes command respect...