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> newbie question, water proofing engine electrical
Always Looking
post Dec 14 2004, 01:11 PM
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I'm sure you all have solved this one. What should I use to replace all of the rubber waterproofing covers for the engine electrical - injectors etc. I'm looking for function here ie. not expensive.
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DJsRepS
post Dec 15 2004, 06:51 AM
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DD is quite right I did'nt find it too hard but kinda tedeous work. Every terminal has to be removed from the plastic plug blocks. I marked with perm marker dot's on ea wire and only the #1dot on the plastic blocks to put them back in the right order. I did it cheap and easy and cost effective and quick did not have to order anything. I cut off all the old caseing, inspected all wires for flexability of the insulation. I know I will get bad press on this one the main body of the harness I covered with cheap black spiral wrap. It looks good to me bends easyly and is thick enough to keep the wires from rubbing anything. For all the injectors and sensors different color heat shrink form the spiral wrap main harness to the part. Then different sizes of alagator test clip terminals that had only Red or Black stretchy BOOT. They worked great for me. Two more things I did related to the push on terminals. There are two clamps on each terminal, one holds the plastic insulation and the one for the money is the copper wire to the terminal. A simple tug on the terminal to see if it's loose or a bad wire is not good enough as the terminals insulation clamp holds the wire quite firmly. I released the insulation clamp to tug on the wire. What I found center trigger terminal fell off green copper rot. And two others were green but survived the tug test. The factory cut these in so well I couldnt even see the green untill I relesed the insulation clamp. I reused the terminals that had green copper cut the wire back 3" and soldered in new wire onto the terminal. The Last Thing I tension checked every terminal before putting it back in its block by pushing it on a spade of a used part then pinched tighter if needed. On the ECU block With spiral wrap no need to pull all it's terminals, but tension check them with a feeler gauge. Find a size that snugs into the majority of them you will find others that wont touch the gauge, pinch those closer. Mine had both 12v input loose and the ground and one on the trigger points center wire. That's the cheap and quick way out I took for an FI harness repair. See Pic injector boots and the spiral main and an freon shradder valve i silver soldered to my injector manifold. I use an old freon gauge set to check my fuel pressure.


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Always Looking   newbie question   Dec 14 2004, 01:11 PM
Dave_Darling   That job is not much fun. You have to pop all the...   Dec 14 2004, 01:31 PM
Always Looking   Thanks for the link. Considering the stage of my ...   Dec 14 2004, 02:24 PM
AndrewBlyholder   I hope we get some advice on this topic. I'm ...   Dec 14 2004, 02:26 PM
Jeff Bowlsby   Thanks for the kudos Dave. Those B-A parts are go...   Dec 14 2004, 02:31 PM
AndrewBlyholder   The Beck-Arnley parts I got did not come with pigt...   Dec 14 2004, 04:10 PM
Dave_Darling   Andrew, I too have some B-A contacts that are just...   Dec 14 2004, 05:04 PM
DJsRepS   DD is quite right I did'nt find it too hard bu...   Dec 15 2004, 06:51 AM
DJsRepS   Oh yea my yellow gas lines are only the normal bla...   Dec 15 2004, 06:56 AM
DJsRepS   Another Oh yea at the joints in the main to the in...   Dec 15 2004, 07:57 AM
freezing14   got that from a Dave darling e-mail in 1999 found ...   Dec 15 2004, 09:04 AM
Dave_Darling   Those are B-A part numbers for the D-jet connector...   Dec 15 2004, 05:59 PM
Dave_Darling   OK, here are the boot part numbers:

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