newbie question, water proofing engine electrical |
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newbie question, water proofing engine electrical |
Always Looking |
Dec 14 2004, 01:11 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 9-December 04 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 3,246 |
I'm sure you all have solved this one. What should I use to replace all of the rubber waterproofing covers for the engine electrical - injectors etc. I'm looking for function here ie. not expensive.
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DJsRepS |
Dec 15 2004, 06:51 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 431 Joined: 4-November 04 From: Sarasota Florida Member No.: 3,060 |
DD is quite right I did'nt find it too hard but kinda tedeous work. Every terminal has to be removed from the plastic plug blocks. I marked with perm marker dot's on ea wire and only the #1dot on the plastic blocks to put them back in the right order. I did it cheap and easy and cost effective and quick did not have to order anything. I cut off all the old caseing, inspected all wires for flexability of the insulation. I know I will get bad press on this one the main body of the harness I covered with cheap black spiral wrap. It looks good to me bends easyly and is thick enough to keep the wires from rubbing anything. For all the injectors and sensors different color heat shrink form the spiral wrap main harness to the part. Then different sizes of alagator test clip terminals that had only Red or Black stretchy BOOT. They worked great for me. Two more things I did related to the push on terminals. There are two clamps on each terminal, one holds the plastic insulation and the one for the money is the copper wire to the terminal. A simple tug on the terminal to see if it's loose or a bad wire is not good enough as the terminals insulation clamp holds the wire quite firmly. I released the insulation clamp to tug on the wire. What I found center trigger terminal fell off green copper rot. And two others were green but survived the tug test. The factory cut these in so well I couldnt even see the green untill I relesed the insulation clamp. I reused the terminals that had green copper cut the wire back 3" and soldered in new wire onto the terminal. The Last Thing I tension checked every terminal before putting it back in its block by pushing it on a spade of a used part then pinched tighter if needed. On the ECU block With spiral wrap no need to pull all it's terminals, but tension check them with a feeler gauge. Find a size that snugs into the majority of them you will find others that wont touch the gauge, pinch those closer. Mine had both 12v input loose and the ground and one on the trigger points center wire. That's the cheap and quick way out I took for an FI harness repair. See Pic injector boots and the spiral main and an freon shradder valve i silver soldered to my injector manifold. I use an old freon gauge set to check my fuel pressure.
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