Another AAR Valve Question, Where does the red lead go? Options

[Craigers17]

Recently, I've been refurbishing the intake and FI system on the 914. I've noticed that a few of the valves are either inoperable or blocked off or both. The AAR valve red lead was not hooked up to anything. I'm trying to figure out where this lead plugs in? I've attached two pics...one of the valve and one of a a white wire that is pretty much the only thing near the AAR valve. So is this white wire the proper connection for the red AAR lead ? If not, where does the red lead go and what does the white wire connect to ?

I'm going to "PB Blast" this thing as well per some of the other posts, but any help on the connection is appreciated. Thanks!

[Craigers17]

So I am still trying to get my AAR valve up and running. I have continuity from the 12 pin on the relay to the business end of the white wire. My volt meter says I am getting around 13.5 volts give or take to my spade connection.

I THINK I had a bad connector on the wire closest to the AAR valve side. After putting on the new connector, that's when I got my 13.5 volt reading. However, I have 2 different AAR valves, and one has been tested good, but neither seem to close.

So, here are my questions:
1. It's possible that I had already warmed my engine up this morning, BEFORE I made the connections functional. So, is the AAR valve ONLY powered during the warm up cycle? In other words, is there a temp shut off, that cuts off after a certain temp?

I can find this out later today or tomorrow morning, when the engine cools back down, but I thought it was worth asking.

2.I am assuming I should have continuity between the red wire connector and the AAR valve canister?

3. The only other thing I can think of is that I need to do more PB blasting on the AAR unit that has been tested, as maybe it locked up again.

Any pointers would be helpful.....I really don't know why I'm "getting worked" by this thing, but I am. Thanks!

[BeatNavy]

So I am still trying to get my AAR valve up and running. I have continuity from the 12 pin on the relay to the business end of the white wire. My volt meter says I am getting around 13.5 volts give or take to my spade connection.

I THINK I had a bad connector on the wire closest to the AAR valve side. After putting on the new connector, that's when I got my 13.5 volt reading. However, I have 2 different AAR valves, and one has been tested good, but neither seem to close. Those AAR leads tend to break off right at the base of the body, which makes repairing them difficult. Even without power to the AAR I believe engine bay temp is enough to make them close eventually, albeit more slowly than it would with voltage across the element. Having said that, yours may still be cruddy to the point where it doesn't want to move either direction.

So, here are my questions:
1. It's possible that I had already warmed my engine up this morning, BEFORE I made the connections functional. So, is the AAR valve ONLY powered during the warm up cycle? In other words, is there a temp shut off, that cuts off after a certain temp? No, my understanding is that the wire has continuous voltage.

I can find this out later today or tomorrow morning, when the engine cools back down, but I thought it was worth asking.

2.I am assuming I should have continuity between the red wire connector and the AAR valve canister? There is continuity, but through the heating element (which will have high resistance). AAR receives 12v from lead and is grounded by bolting it to the mount of the case. You could take a measurement and you should see some continuity I suppose.

3. The only other thing I can think of is that I need to do more PB blasting on the AAR unit that has been tested, as maybe it locked up again. Probably what's going on. You can carefully pry open the top to get better access to the innards for cleaning purposes.

Any pointers would be helpful.....I really don't know why I'm "getting worked" by this thing, but I am. Thanks!

Here is my understanding, inline in Red. Hopefully others can confirm or dispute.

I'd recommend removing the AAR from the car and bench testing it. Wait until it's cold and make sure it's open. Use a jumper to (carefully) connect the lead to the positive battery terminal and use another jumper to connect the AAR body to negative terminal. You should observe it to start closing and be fully closed after 5 minutes or so.