Rust inhibitors / converters / paints, What is the best surface preparation before painting Options

[Dobbsy]

Hello,

I have taken the fuel tank out to clean and under the tank there is surface rust which I would like to address before putting the tank back in. The goal is to clean it up and prevent the rust getting worse.
I am think of using Kurust after I cleaned the majority of the rust off then paint over it.
Are there any other products you could recommend.



Also how did the factory fit the roll bar, the PO did not do a good job of cutting the body to make way for the plate.

[Montreal914]

This is an interesting topic;
As the OP shows his surface rust, there have been a few answers of the remedy process with some variations. Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The final steps being epoxy primer, then paint.

For the house garage type of repairs on a daily driver, what kind of epoxy primer and finishing paint would you recommend for these no so visible repairs?

Can something be done using good metal protecting products, without the need of a compressor and professional spray paint equipment? Read; brush and rattle can? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Superhawk996]

For the house garage type of repairs on a daily driver, what kind of epoxy primer and finishing paint would you recommend for these no so visible repairs?

Can something be done using good metal protecting products, without the need of a compressor and professional spray paint equipment? Read; brush and rattle can? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

I'm a fan of SprayMax 2K Epoxy primer.

Comes in a rattle can that has two chambers. Before use, you puncture the 2nd chamber that dumps the catalyst into the main can cavity. Shake well, Spray. Real 2 stage epoxy from a can!

Pot life is about 3 days before the material in the can gets too thick to spray well. Pot life varies by temperature once mixed.

It is a bit pricy at about $20/can but slightly cheaper if you buy quantity.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-MAX-Rapid-Prim...Y/dp/B00B3I2E8E

No compressor, no mess, no fuss, no need to carefully clean up spray guns to keep paint from hardening in them.

Wear a proper organic vapor respirator! They also have an Isocyanate free version p/n 3 680 031

You local paint store may also be able to mix color in 2K for small repair areas with the same type of 2 part can depending on your location.

[bbrock]

For the house garage type of repairs on a daily driver, what kind of epoxy primer and finishing paint would you recommend for these no so visible repairs?

Can something be done using good metal protecting products, without the need of a compressor and professional spray paint equipment? Read; brush and rattle can? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

I'm a fan of SprayMax 2K Epoxy primer.

Comes in a rattle can that has two chambers. Before use, you puncture the 2nd chamber that dumps the catalyst into the main can cavity. Shake well, Spray. Real 2 stage epoxy from a can!

Pot life is about 3 days before the material in the can gets too thick to spray well. Pot life varies by temperature once mixed.

It is a bit pricy at about $20/can but slightly cheaper if you buy quantity.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-MAX-Rapid-Prim...Y/dp/B00B3I2E8E

No compressor, no mess, no fuss, no need to carefully clean up spray guns to keep paint from hardening in them.

Wear a proper organic vapor respirator! They also have an Isocyanate free version p/n 3 680 031

You local paint store may also be able to mix color in 2K for small repair areas with the same type of 2 part can depending on your location.

I've used Eastwood's version of 2K epoxy in a rattle can. Might be a rebrand of what Phil linked but I've used it and it seems good.

Also, you can brush on epoxy primer. It just isn't as pretty as spray, but brushes on a protects just fine.