Heat shed, what am I missing to cool her down?, *Update - 1st Test Run after cleanup - still HOT |
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Heat shed, what am I missing to cool her down?, *Update - 1st Test Run after cleanup - still HOT |
nditiz1 |
Jul 5 2020, 09:41 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Update - pass side tin removed. Signs of leakage.
*Update* - Webers were successful in scooting the teener down the road, but head temps still reached 400, engine drop to follow shortly. Stock 2.0 Engine Converted to carbs - (Dual 40 Dells - 60 Idle jet) Engine tin in place - needs seal on the passenger side Thermostat - dead/expanded - flaps auto spring to full open Valves set .006/.008 Timing 28 - New Pertronix SVDA - vac plugged when timed to 28 No AFR setup - want to say rich not lean New plugs NGK B6ES gapped to .028 *Updated info based on comments* Oil pressure when hot 40 PSI at 4k - so looks ok Oil currently in the block unknown - dark lol, but within the min and max marks Targa was on during test run Deflection flaps present Cooling fan has 1 broken fin CHT gauge is Dakota Digital under cyl#3 spark plug Engine lid is currently off - Dealer installed AC - Box and grate still in place - is this robbing the cool air from under the car at speed? Running oil temp 240/250F 85F ambient temp Head temps in 4th on flat cruising at 65 mph at 4k RPM - *400 and climbing if going up a hill Head temps in 3rd up and down hills *395, but can hit 400 if I get on it just a little Compression test was Cyl #1 - 135 Cyl #2 - 135 Cyl #3 - 130 - CHT temp sensor Cyl #4 - 135 Assuming the carbs are not lean (went 3 turns out, and now went to 4) what should I check next? I thought maybe I needed a rebuild since the compression numbers cold were around 125 with with a 12 psi gap between 2 of the cylinders, but this warm compression check looks healthy. The plugs do look a little white, but the last run I did was in the garage with it running at idle and some briefs to 3500 RPM to ensure the timing was correct. I know this is not to preferred method to check plugs as they should be done driving regularly and then shut off the engine and not let it idle to get a true reading. I have a gas tester I can maybe hook up to check the CO2 at the tail pipe (yes, I should have an AFR to get better readings) In the garage I was running at 350 head temp just at idle ambient temps 82. I know sitting has no air flow. I feel like when I rebuilt my last 2056, I could idle in the garage all day long at 300 or under. Let's assume the carbs are rich enough in the mixture so as to not be lean, will the engine seals being tattered and 1 missing (most crucial side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ) be enough to make even back road driving push cyl 3 head temps to 400 and above? Plugs - less than 50 miles - maybe not enough time Cyl 1 and 2 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1593964487.1.jpg) Cyl 3 and 4 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1593964488.2.jpg) |
nditiz1 |
Jul 14 2020, 10:27 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
*Will need a drop and rebuild
Not sure what else I can do. -I have cleaned out most if not all the gunk on the 3/4 side -sealed up every hole and crack -jetted the idles up to 55 from 50 on a set of webers -set timing to 27 degrees Tonight I performed another test run and things seemed like they were doing better than last time. Ambient temps 70. Engine temps stayed under 400 in 5th on the highway. After a 20 minute drive I got on it a little from rest back onto the highway. Temps started creeping up as they did on the way to the city. I could no longer keep the temps under 400 while going up a long slow incline. Dropped it to 4th helped a little, but never brought them back under 400 until I was at the crest of the hill. Mashing the pedal in 4th and winding it out for a few seconds actually helped in bringing the temp down. I can only assume this was due to the large burst of air and the accelerator pump on the carb dropping some much needed fuel into a leaning out cylinder. I'm already running 135 mains. I feel like this engine should be running 120 mains with 50 idles, but i was trying to throw more fuel just to see if that would keep the temps under control (I have several jets for tuning so it wasn't any additional cost to test) At one point when I was really stressing the engine 415 degrees or so the oil pressure light kicked on. I let off the gas and it went out after a few seconds. I checked the oil pressure gauge and it still looked good around 30psi so I'm not sure what that was about. So I feel like only an engine tear down can tell me where I am failing to keep the cylinder rich. |
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