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rjames |
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,309 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Drove around for 30 minutes in 80+ degree weather. All arterial roads, so several stop lights, etc. No problems until I was almost home. Car stalled when I stopped at a light. RPMs just dropped to zero. Was able to start it again with a little difficulty and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out again. Power seemed ok though the rest of the way home (I think). It stalled once again at a stop light a couple of blocks from home and then again when I pulled in the driveway. I let it sit for 30 seconds, started it again and it idled just fine. Rock solid at 1000 RPMs. Pulled it into the garage where it sits now.
Prior to today the car has been running and idling perfectly since I went through the FI parts last year, which included installing a 123 distributor, new CHT sensor, a newly rebuilt mps (calibrated for correct afr on my engine), new vacuum hoses, NOS throttle body, rebuilt injectors, new fuel pump, valve adjustment and timing. I haven’t checked the AFR since last year, not sure why it would change though. It’s a ‘75 so the fuel pump is in the front, so I can rule out vapor lock I think. Anyone have ideas as to why it would be stalling? |
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logica |
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logica ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10 Joined: 5-March 18 From: San Antonio, TX Member No.: 21,941 Region Association: None ![]() |
I have similar symptoms in my '74 2.0 EFI. This week, I changed all of the vacuum hoses, replaced and relocated the fuel pump to the front of the car (to eliminate the vapor lock issue), installed new fuel lines, and fuel filter, and the problem does not go away. The car is now idling closer to 1100 RPMs versus where I typically have it set up around 1000 RPMs. The problem seems to exacerbate after I run the car wide open in the highway going over 70 MPH for more than 20 minutes.
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