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rfinegan |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,073 Joined: 8-February 13 From: NC Member No.: 15,499 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Parts arrived today for the install on my upgrade battery. Odyssey PC924 and Aluminum mount. Just need the terminal kit.
Will post a few pick of the install to follow.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-Battery-Hold-Do...872.m2749.l2649 Streetray 925 mount -Robert Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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914e |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 497 Joined: 21-February 20 From: Arizona Member No.: 23,951 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
Even in the 70's an alternator should be able put out enough current to run the engine , lights, and fans at idle. If you are seeing big voltage drops at idle, you have either added some loads the car was not designed for, or you have an alternator problem. A battery should not be discharging when the car is running. Unfortunately the 914 has no headroom for electrical accessories, of course in the late sixties there was not many electrical accessories.
When the car is off and battery fully charged it should be at 12.6 volts. If it is below that either the battery is bad the charging system is not working properly. If the battery is down a few tenths of a volt below 12.6 you have lost a large amount of the current capabilities of the battery. The battery when the car is running should be acting as a buffer. With the car running you should see 13.6 to 14 volts on a test voltmeter, I would not trust the gauge. According to the service manual the regulator is set to 14 volts. 13.7 to 14.2 is typical for lead acid 12 volt systems. In cars voltage is usually a symptom in a battery and charging system problem not a cause. The problem most of the time is current related. A clamp on DC amp-meter can take out most of the guesswork. |
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