Car stalling AGAIN, Updates- none of them good. Options

[rjames]

Drove around for 30 minutes in 80+ degree weather. All arterial roads, so several stop lights, etc. No problems until I was almost home. Car stalled when I stopped at a light. RPMs just dropped to zero. Was able to start it again with a little difficulty and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out again. Power seemed ok though the rest of the way home (I think). It stalled once again at a stop light a couple of blocks from home and then again when I pulled in the driveway. I let it sit for 30 seconds, started it again and it idled just fine. Rock solid at 1000 RPMs. Pulled it into the garage where it sits now.

Prior to today the car has been running and idling perfectly since I went through the FI parts last year, which included installing a 123 distributor, new CHT sensor, a newly rebuilt mps (calibrated for correct afr on my engine), new vacuum hoses, NOS throttle body, rebuilt injectors, new fuel pump, valve adjustment and timing.

I haven’t checked the AFR since last year, not sure why it would change though.
It’s a ‘75 so the fuel pump is in the front, so I can rule out vapor lock I think.

Anyone have ideas as to why it would be stalling?

[BeatNavy]

Can you be more specific about where air is coming from? Doesn’t seem right.

Sort of grasping but have you done a compression check?

[rjames]

Can you be more specific about where air is coming from? Doesn’t seem right.

Sort of grasping but have you done a compression check?

It's ok, I'm grasping too. I haven't done a compression check but planning on borrowing the tool to do so tomorrow.

Air is coming from the hole in the tin just above where #4 is stamped in the tin, and also through where the CHT wire comes out of. I’m told head leaks are loud, but no abnormal sounds though.

[toadman]

Can you be more specific about where air is coming from? Doesn’t seem right.

Sort of grasping but have you done a compression check?

It's ok, I'm grasping too. I haven't done a compression check but planning on borrowing the tool to do so tomorrow.

Air is coming from the hole in the tin just above where #4 is stamped in the tin, and also through where the CHT wire comes out of. I’m told head leaks are loud, but no abnormal sounds though.

On my car the hole in the tin above the #4 holds a small plastic spark plug wire guide. Also, there should be a rubber seal in the hole where the CHT wire comes through the tin. For optimum cooling you should "seal" all holes in the tin with the factory component that is meant to go there or something else. For example, missing spark plug wire seals let out gobs of cooling air.

Regarding your intermittent stalling, I read this whole thread one time and I recall that you mentioned that you checked your grounds but I don't recall you saying which ones you checked. Did you check the tri-prong FI ground on the top of the engine, the ground under the relay board behind the driver and the transmission-to-body ground on the trunk floor? My apologies if have repeated something.