Jack point replacement and paint matching Options

[Tdskip]

Good morning gentlemen, hope everybody’s having a good week. Just doing some planning here on the blue 74 that is currently in storage. It’s a original Southern California car, been off the road for a very long time but is quite solid except for the passenger side Jack point as shown in the pictures below. Just doing some planning here on the blue 74 that is currently in storage. It’s a original Southern California car, been off the road for a very long time but is quite solid except for the passenger side jack point as shown in the pictures below. There was a repair made here but it’s not to proper standard and I am planning on addressing it. The door gaps are still perfect, so I don’t think the structure overall is weak, this just needs a more proper repair.

I have the donor metal from car that was written off so I think I’m “just” looking at bracing the car to protect my gaps and then getting good weld penetration to complete the repair. Yes/no/maybe?

The paint will have to be touched up of course, and while this is not a visible part of the car if I’m going through this level of effort it would be nice to have it match. It looks like it was a custom paint that I am assuming is going to require me bringing a sample to a shop and then getting as good of a match as possible? Think a good paint shop will be able to get close in match?

Thanks!

[Superhawk996]

@tdskip (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

How timely. We are both going to go though the same hell together. Misery loves company. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif)

Yesterday in an effort to get the sand out of my driver side longitudinal I cut some holes to get access to the front. Those will get repaired along with replacment of the pedal box area.

How to get to the back?

Well DAPO had some 1/2 ass jack point repair on driver side. Seemed like a good time to cut off the lame sheetmetal bottom 1/2 of the pyramid to get access to the normal rust hole that is behind one of these 1/2 ass repairs.

Sure enough.



I used the shop vac, compressed air and some profanity to get the sand out.

Now I have to figure out how to repair it.

In my case the DAPO left the top 1/2 of the pyramid so there is some thought that I could just buy a proper pyramid, cut it and than do a slightly cleaner version of the DAPO repair done with thin (20 GA?) sheetmetal and lots of booger welds.

As you state, removal of fender is the usual way.

I think the Doc also mentioned that door jamb can be cut out to provide acccess to the top of the pyramid via MIG. Point & shoot with MIG would probably work but I've only got TIG and I actually need to see to weld.

In my case I can't do either because i want to preserve the paint and the fiberglass flares without creating a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) load more sheetmetal work and paint work.

I'm contemplating creating a surgical flap from the wheelhouse inner that I can access the top of the pyramid from. It just rubs me the wrong way to only replace 1/2 of the pyramid but I can't exactly put my finger on why other than some generic version of "craftsmanship" and wanting to do the job right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

In my case the wheelhouse inner will eventually get cut for /6 coversion and oil tank. Plus the bulkhead is already stripped to bare metal for sheetmetal repairs so I already am going to have to shoot some paint in the engine compartment. I'm just not sure if I actually cut the flap, will it be good enough access to allow me to TIG the top.

Still thinking about other options. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)