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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,737 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Good morning gentlemen, hope everybody’s having a good week. Just doing some planning here on the blue 74 that is currently in storage. It’s a original Southern California car, been off the road for a very long time but is quite solid except for the passenger side Jack point as shown in the pictures below. Just doing some planning here on the blue 74 that is currently in storage. It’s a original Southern California car, been off the road for a very long time but is quite solid except for the passenger side jack point as shown in the pictures below. There was a repair made here but it’s not to proper standard and I am planning on addressing it. The door gaps are still perfect, so I don’t think the structure overall is weak, this just needs a more proper repair.
I have the donor metal from car that was written off so I think I’m “just” looking at bracing the car to protect my gaps and then getting good weld penetration to complete the repair. Yes/no/maybe? The paint will have to be touched up of course, and while this is not a visible part of the car if I’m going through this level of effort it would be nice to have it match. It looks like it was a custom paint that I am assuming is going to require me bringing a sample to a shop and then getting as good of a match as possible? Think a good paint shop will be able to get close in match? Thanks! ![]() ![]() |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,737 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Good morning, dusting this thread off as I am going to dive into this over the next week or so.
Found this picture on another thread which helps additionally focus the question. ![]() When I remove the patch that is on there now, and then deal with whatever is behind there, I will need to close it back up obviously. I was planning on using the OEM orange-ish piece since the metal should all be the same gauge and I has that little lip as a reference point. Just to make sure I understand - @superhawk996 the concern you raised is how I properly weld the top of that replacement panel to the rest of the car which I highlighted in blue below, correct? @bbrock - I don’t remember from your thread if you had to deal with this or not. In under car picture shown it is clear I will have access to the bottom so I can weld in the three areas I highlighted in red on the second picture. To get to the area in blue do people remove part of the rear fender usually? ![]() |
Lilchopshop |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 86 Joined: 17-February 20 From: New York Member No.: 23,932 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Good morning, dusting this thread off as I am going to dive into this over the next week or so. Found this picture on another thread which helps additionally focus the question. ![]() When I remove the patch that is on there now, and then deal with whatever is behind there, I will need to close it back up obviously. I was planning on using the OEM orange-ish piece since the metal should all be the same gauge and I has that little lip as a reference point. Just to make sure I understand - @superhawk996 the concern you raised is how I properly weld the top of that replacement panel to the rest of the car which I highlighted in blue below, correct? @bbrock - I don’t remember from your thread if you had to deal with this or not. In under car picture shown it is clear I will have access to the bottom so I can weld in the three areas I highlighted in red on the second picture. To get to the area in blue do people remove part of the rear fender usually? ![]() Probably not what you want to see, but this is how I recently repaired my passenger jack point. (I’m in process of doing the exact same thing on the drivers side). I knew I had hidden rust, so I wasn’t too concerned with cutting the fender so I had good access. If I was sure the jack point was the only issue, I would have figured out a way to weld the top of the replacement jack point without cutting the fender. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...sty+jack+points |
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#4
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,737 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Probably not what you want to see, but this is how I recently repaired my passenger jack point. (I’m in process of doing the exact same thing on the drivers side). I knew I had hidden rust, so I wasn’t too concerned with cutting the fender so I had good access. If I was sure the jack point was the only issue, I would have figured out a way to weld the top of the replacement jack point without cutting the fender. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...sty+jack+points Thanks for the post, it is what it is, appreciate the link. Hope you r week if off to a good start. |
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