Starting my engine on a stand, issues arose |
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Starting my engine on a stand, issues arose |
malcolm2 |
Sep 29 2020, 06:16 AM
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#41
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
I have built a fresh 2.0 and borrowed a set of weber 40s to get her running, broken-in etc....
I bought a new single vacuum distributor with the flame thrower 3 module inside. Also bought the Petronix coil. I built up oil pressure, then connected the gas lines, fuel pump, and coil. Tach and timing light too. After a few tries, she started. As expected running very ruff. Back-firing thru the carbs. I loosened the distributor and tried to make some adjustments. That seemed to help the back-firing a bit, but not totally. I got the idle timing to what looks like 7 btdc, but it is tuff to work everything without a helper. I know next to nothing about these carbs, and about the same amount to tune them enough to bench run the engine, but I am looking into that. Any help would be appreciated on the carbs. I got it idling, again, very ruff. So I wanted to do the cam break in, so I rev'd it up to about 3000 and held there. Maybe a minute and the revs dropped and I had to putz with the accelerator to keep her going. Again up to 3000, same thing revs dropped. I have a note in to my distributor vendor about how this "rev limiter" on this module works. So three things here. She is still running ruff, back-firing etc...and there is the high rev cut-off. Lastly the carbs, any quick checks or adjustments there? Any thoughts or suggestions? |
nditiz1 |
Sep 30 2020, 12:32 PM
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#42
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,191 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
You might be able to combo ship with other things you might need like rebuild kits, jets, etc.
If not doing the soaking route, be sure to pick up a couple cans of brake cleaner. Remove everything that you can, especially the adjusters with rubber gaskets (the brakeclean likes to eat them) Shoot the cleaner into every port. You can even fill up the bowls and activate the squirter pump by hand to get the cleaner to flow through. I usually follow up with an air tool through the ports. Reassemble and set your baselines. Leave the linkage off until you are almost ready to drive. You will not need it for any tuning except ensuring the carbs are in sync off idle. This is where the snail will help as well. When you get to that point you can hold the idle slightly open at like 1500 -2000 rpm and check that both sides are drawing in the same amount of air. If they are even you know your carbs will be in sync while driving. Again this is the last step before taking it out. The only other adjustments will be with the jetting, but if you start with the base of the carbs (assuming Weber 40 IDF) You should be at: Vents 28 Idle 50 Main 115 Air 180 |
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